Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Routes in Unknown Pleasures
|Leapin' Lizards S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Oni S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Persona Non Grata S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Sharkfighter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Touch of Grey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Unknown 11 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Unknown 9 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Unknown Pleasures S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft|
|Page Views:||416 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||Perin Blanchard on Oct 2, 2013|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionAn improbable-looking line that is quite a fun outing.
Good pockets and edges down low followed by a sudden dearth of human-usable holds after the fifth bolt.
Figure out how to get up past the seeming blankness and from thence past the sixth bolt. If you're still attached to the wall at this point fight the pump and head to the last bolt, and then up and slightly left to the chains.
There is a second pitch above and left of the chains. The first bolt is probably 15 feet left and eight or ten feet from the chains. (Or link as one pitch, but the rope drag looks horrendous.)
LocationOn the east-facing wall that is around to the right (north) outside corner from where the trail initially meets the wall. The routes start on a ledge. Scramble up near the right side of the ledge.
This route is the 3rd from the left. A double-chain belay/rappel anchor is at head height on the wall. This route leads up and right from that anchor.