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Routes in Unknown Pleasures

Leapin' Lizards S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oni S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Persona Non Grata S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sharkfighter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Touch of Grey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown 11 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown 9 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Pleasures S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Steve Bleyl
Page Views: 416 total, 8/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 2, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

An improbable-looking line that is quite a fun outing.

Good pockets and edges down low followed by a sudden dearth of human-usable holds after the fifth bolt.

Figure out how to get up past the seeming blankness and from thence past the sixth bolt. If you're still attached to the wall at this point fight the pump and head to the last bolt, and then up and slightly left to the chains.

There is a second pitch above and left of the chains. The first bolt is probably 15 feet left and eight or ten feet from the chains. (Or link as one pitch, but the rope drag looks horrendous.)

Location

On the east-facing wall that is around to the right (north) outside corner from where the trail initially meets the wall. The routes start on a ledge. Scramble up near the right side of the ledge.

This route is the 3rd from the left. A double-chain belay/rappel anchor is at head height on the wall. This route leads up and right from that anchor.

Protection

7 bolts to the first chain anchors. There is a fixed draw at bolt 6.

Another pitch with several fixed draws above.

Photos

climbslc
SLC, UT
climbslc   SLC, UT
The upper "pitch" that a goes left and up the overhanging dihedral is called Onibabba. I linked it from the top of Oni and thought it was 12b? Too much FA-bias to say, but there was significant pucker factor to be sure. I think I put a long runner on the chains of Oni.
Steve Oct 30, 2016
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
@Melissa: Darren Knezek at Mountainworks in Provo can give you specifics; however, I'm pretty sure the extension hasn't yet been sent. I gave it a run once and it was 5.really-hard. Darren has worked on it a few times.

The direct line was put up by Darren; I sent it to the first anchors at what I thought was probably .11c or d; that could change as more stuff falls off. Oct 26, 2015
does anyone know what the extension goes at? I'm talking about the one that trends leftward.

Also, there is another variation that is more direct and pulls a small roof on black rock - any information on this one too? Thanks! Oct 25, 2015
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.11c/d
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.11c/d
This area is so beautiful. Off the deck and amazing AF. First 4-5 bolts are easy then you get a little rest before launching thru the crux at the fixed draw. Its very balancy with small feet and sharp hands trending right thru more nasty holds then you are rewarded with some nice jugs then more crimpiness to the chains. I liked this climb because it wandered around, it wasn't just straight up. Short and sweet. May 30, 2014