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Routes in Unknown Pleasures

Leapin' Lizards S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oni S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Persona Non Grata S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sharkfighter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Touch of Grey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown 11 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown 9 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Pleasures S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 120 total, 2/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on May 21, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A fun stemming route with a few liebacking moves thrown in, plus a hand jamb or two.

Start up some junky, broken rock (but easy climbing). The first bolt is high, but it's easy to get there. A bit of face climbing to and past the second bolt, and then the fun begins.

Stemming in the corner and liebacking plus stemming past two bulges make this an enjoyable outing.

Be solid at the grade. There are a couple of places you really don't want to fall.

Location

Up the corner at the left of the crag. The corner is to the left of the large, triangular roof.

Protection

6 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

BJB
Texas
 
BJB   Texas
 
This is a great route. I don't know if I've done a climb with such diversity of climbing. The location's great too, and the finish is cool and airy. Jul 25, 2015
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
  5.10b
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
  5.10b
Seriously. A super fun warm-up for the tougher routes on this wall. May 22, 2012