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Routes in Unknown Pleasures

Leapin' Lizards S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monogoloid S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oni S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Persona Non Grata S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Shadowplay S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sharkfighter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Through Being Cool S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Touch of Grey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown 5.11 Corner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.8 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Pleasures S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Whip It S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Working in a Coal Mine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 181 total · 3/month
Shared By: bheller on Jun 9, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A well positioned technical and relentless route that will ram you in the gills with its continually bold climbing. This route feels "old school". By today's standards there are unnecessarily spaced out bolts, bad clipping stances, and even a few straight-up poor bolt placements. Even the anchor bolts are spaced too far apart from one another. With that said, if this route were to be re-engineered(and I would put it high on the re-engineer list!), It would easily warrant at least 3 of 4 stars. This level of sustained and balancey climbing on the sometimes strange (but solid) rock is a bit of a rarity in AF. The Ruckman AF guidebook has this rated at 12b overall with a 12a crux down low and a 12a crux up higher- expect both these sections to feel 12b, and the lower crux to feel harder(especially if you're a shorty). A sneaky hands-free rest in the middle barely keeps the grade at 12b, but hey, anything goes when you're fighting a shark! Oh yeah, at the finish of the route, summon your pre-historic power and fearlessly charge through the "dorsal fin" flake moves to the steeper headwall that is airy and awesome!

Location

Located on the first clean vertical wall found at the Unknown Pleasures wall- just right of the bolted corner (Persona Non Grata), and left of the route Unknown Pleasures. The best place to drop the ropebag is on the flat angular stones where the giant tree has fallen down slope. Be sure to use a 70m here! The start is a ledgey choss approach for about 30 feet.

Protection

Bolt only- SMC hangers. Chain anchors. Spaced bolts with a few bad clipping stances and some poor bolt locations. Potential to deck at the start if you blow the clips. 70 meter rope recommended.

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bheller
SL UT
  5.12b
bheller   SL UT
  5.12b
Anybody know who botched the rebolt on this route? I'd be happy to offer hardware and mentorship for he/she to fix their mistakes! PM me please. Jun 9, 2018

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