Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Unknown Pleasures

Leapin' Lizards S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oni S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Persona Non Grata S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sharkfighter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Touch of Grey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown 11 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown 9 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Pleasures S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 104 total, 2/month
Shared By: bheller on Jun 9, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A well positioned technical and relentless route that will ram you in the gills with its continually bold climbing. This route feels "old school". By today's standards there are unnecessarily spaced out bolts, bad clipping stances, and even a few straight-up poor bolt placements. Even the anchor bolts are spaced too far apart from one another. With that said, if this route were to be re-engineered(and I would put it high on the re-engineer list!), It would easily warrant at least 3 of 4 stars. This level of sustained and balancey climbing on the sometimes strange (but solid) rock is a bit of a rarity in AF. The Ruckman AF guidebook has this rated at 12b overall with a 12a crux down low and a 12a crux up higher- expect both these sections to feel 12b, and the lower crux to feel harder(especially if you're a shorty). A sneaky hands-free rest in the middle barely keeps the grade at 12b, but hey, anything goes when you're fighting a shark! Oh yeah, at the finish of the route, summon your pre-historic power and fearlessly charge through the "dorsal fin" flake moves to the steeper headwall that is airy and awesome!

Location

Located on the first clean vertical wall found at the Unknown Pleasures wall- just right of the bolted corner (Persona Non Grata), and left of the route Unknown Pleasures. The best place to drop the ropebag is on the flat angular stones where the giant tree has fallen down slope. Be sure to use a 70m here! The start is a ledgey choss approach for about 30 feet.

Protection

Bolt only- SMC hangers. Chain anchors. Spaced bolts with a few bad clipping stances and some poor bolt locations. Potential to deck at the start if you blow the clips. 70 meter rope recommended.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments