Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Unknown Pleasures

Leapin' Lizards S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oni S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Persona Non Grata S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sharkfighter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Touch of Grey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown 11 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown 9 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Pleasures S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Steve Bleyl
Page Views: 340 total, 5/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on May 22, 2012 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A fine line on less-than-fine rock for part of the way, with stellar stone from about halfway on.

The line starts by curving to the left, apparently to avoid even poorer rock. At the third bolt the line heads more or less straight up for several bolts, but eventually trends back to the right. The whole line is a shallow C-shape.

There is a good rest on the route but you'll have to be willing to find it. Otherwise, the sections before and after the rest are fairly sustained, with only a few shake-outs here and there.

And just when you think you've got it made...the ending section appears. As the Ruckmans say "A little harder if you're shorter."

Note that since this description was originally entered this line may have become harder. See the comments.

Location

After arriving at the base of Unknown Pleasures continue along a trail to the right. Round the outside corner at the right side of the first east-facing wall and head up hill a bit.

The next east-facing wall has a ledge at its base, up to which you'll need to scramble.

A Touch of Grey is the left-most route on this wall. There is a 2-chain belay anchor. This route starts just to the left of the belay anchor.

Protection

12 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

Leify Guy
  5.12b/c
Leify Guy  
  5.12b/c
I've since sent the route, I wouldn't be the best judge of bolt placement since I just opted to make the hard moves and then clip the bolt at my ankles, however, I do think the grade to be closer to 5.12c now, maybe b/c, but I'll climb it again this spring to confirm... Feb 16, 2017
climbslc
SLC, UT
climbslc   SLC, UT
Sounds like that last bolt needs to be moved -- Its my route so I reserve the right to alter it ;)

I'd be happy to go up and do that w/ someone who wants to help decide where the best new spot is (PM me if interested). Oct 30, 2016
Lotapowder
Sandy
Lotapowder   Sandy
Hey Leify Guy,
Browsing MP tonight I saw your post and thought I would chime in. Anyway, I was on the route the summer of 2014 and broke said hold off. I was not able to do the "new" move even off the dog and you are right about clipping the bolt.(VERY difficult) It would be interesting for someone stronger than I to go up there and let people know how hard it is now. Sorry:-( Apr 30, 2016
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
Leif, it could have easily broken this year. AF isn't known for the most awesome rock, so it's possible it's just way more difficult now. Oct 7, 2015
Leify Guy
  5.12b/c
Leify Guy  
  5.12b/c
I can't believe nobody has commented on the altered nature of this route, due to a broken hold, the crux is now after what used to be the crux and the route feels significantly harder... Clipping the last bolt is now stupid hard, I even tried skipping it once to get the send and still ended up going for a ride. Aug 5, 2015
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
 
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
 
This a long route with one very big rest then another smaller but useful rest just before the last 2 bolt crux section. Before you get there there is a very thin section that will wake you up - it has very small hand holds but with good feet and requires good balance.

The upper crux is just plain intense - you just feel stretched out on it, reaching for holds and stretching the feet. The reward is some awesome jugs to the chains. Very long and exposed in a setting that is superb. Aug 23, 2012