Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mark Hathaway & Scott Ayers (1998)
Page Views: 277 total · 4/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Sep 21, 2013
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

Climb moderate, broken-looking, black rock to a high first bolt. Pull over a lip to gain a ledge. The next twenty feet is the meat of the route: a stunning hanging corner. Use a combination of laybacks, hand-foot matches, and stemming to overcome the crack. Exit left, clipping a bolt, and scamper up easier terrain to another bolt. Transition into Mister Hankey The Christmas Poo (Indirect) to finish at the chains of Kick In The Nuts.

This route is a little crumbly with small flecks coming off in numerous places. There is also a large chockstone at the base of the hanging corner that wiggles. While I was unable to remove and believe it will stay, caution should be used. I avoided using it for a foot as a precaution.

An alternative finish straight through the final roof was explored but never completed. There is a fixed nut and chains. One or two bolts and the permission of the FA team is all that is needed to complete this variation. This finish would bump the grade to approximately 12+.

In my opinion Screw You Guys, I'm Going Home is more challenging and sustained.

Location

Scuzzlebutt is the third route from the right on the far right end of the crag. It starts by climbing grungy black rock to a high first bolt.

Protection

Bolts and chains. A few shoulder length slings are useful to reduce rope drag as the route pulls a sharp right near the top.

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