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Elevation: 8,400 ft
GPS: 32.4514, -110.7914
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 18,974 total · 94/month
Shared By: WSnyder on Jun 30, 2007
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

Morning to midday sun and afternoon shade. Remote and secluded.

Getting There Suggest change

Follow the topo's I have posted. Do not try to contour around on the old trail below the rim anymore as it is far too overgrown post fire and runs through a couple of patches of Gooding's Onions. Having been there many times pre-fire I was able to follow about 80-90% of the original trail and it took me approximately 1 1/4 hours from car to crag contouring through the nettles, brush and fallen trees. Definitely "Sucked Ass!!!". Follow the ridges shown on the posted maps. Walking distance is just under a mile. It took less than 30 minutes to walk out following the ridges.

Per Scott Tucker: "New directions from farther up the road: Go past the hairpin turn where you would normally park. The road goes through two right curves. On the straight before the road turns left there is a dirt area on the left side to park. On the right side of the road is a bit of a trail leading up the hill. (There is currently a cairn up at the top.) Head up and left from the road to the top of the ridge. Go left along the ridge and you can pick up a faint trail going around the right side of a knoll. Just past this is the tangle of burned trees in the directions above. A faint but followable trail goes right and down to the saddle and takes you to the crag. This took 15-20 minutes off the approach.".

Per Christian: "Some further comments on getting there from the new parking area: Once you get up off the road, from the cairn you only go left for about 100 feet before turning right and booking it pretty much straight up the hill to the ridge. Once you get to the ridge, you will see the large rock outcropping way down and off in the distance to the west. The first time I saw these rocks I thought they couldn't possibly be it because they looked so far away, but once you head down off the ridge you'll be there in about 25 minutes.".

Look for a broken off burned pine snag about 20 feet high and start your descent there dropping slightly off the west side of the ridge center then slowly veer back towards the middle of the ridge. A visible trail is starting to take shape down this ridge although it doesn't appear until you get down the hill about 50-100 feet. Halfway down this ridge you will encounter a small rock outcropping that you will have to scramble over or around for about 20 feet or so. After scrambling over the rock outcropping the trail shifts slightly to the east side of the ridge center maybe 10-20 feet. At the northernmost end of the saddle (4 on map) the Northpark trail is barely visible and pretty much gone. For Southpark contour to the left (several trails are forming across this hill) below the 8686' elevation peak for 200 yards or so looking for another saddle (5 on map). As you are contouring, an exposed rock peak will become visible up above and to the west. The saddle you are looking for is on the east flank of this peak. A small ridge of rock running up and down the hill may obscure this saddle from view until you cross over the ridge of rock. Once in this saddle drop in to the north and you will find the climbs on your left, "Sweeeeet" you have just arrived in Southpark. Careful when dropping in as everything is eroding and loose after the fire. Let me know if any of my directions are unclear or if things change so I can update the description. Note: The Northpark location and waypoint is an approximation (marked too far north down the ridge) as I did not physically go there to mark it.

16 Total Climbs

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Location: South Park Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at South Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 22
Strike & Slip
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 36
Kick the Baby
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 40
Southpark
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 27
You Will Respect My Authoriti
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 17
Conjoined Twin Myslexia
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Unknown (Left Of Kick The Baby)
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
Mr Hanky The Christmas Poo: Indi…
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Sit Down and Shut Up
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 26
They Killed Kenny
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 9
Mr Hanky The Christmas Poo: Direct
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 13
Kick in the Nuts
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 11
You Bastards
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Screw You Guys, I'm Going Home
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Strike & Slip
 22
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Kick the Baby
 36
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Southpark
 40
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
You Will Respect My Authoriti
 27
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Conjoined Twin Myslexia
 17
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Unknown (Left Of Kick The B…
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Mr Hanky The Christmas Poo:…
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Sit Down and Shut Up
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
They Killed Kenny
 26
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Mr Hanky The Christmas Poo:…
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Kick in the Nuts
 13
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
You Bastards
 11
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Screw You Guys, I'm Going Home
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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