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Routes in South Face

Hidden Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
One Hard Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rack & Pinyon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rigging T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sharks Fin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sickle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sickle Roof T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Spiral Staircase T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sunshine Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Twin Crack Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Crack Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow Edge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Goff, et al...
Page Views: 392 total, 8/month
Shared By: Walt Barker on Sep 12, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Falcon Closures from early February until mid-July. Details
Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

A cool route with an airy, ascending traverse in the middle. Expect a variety of climbing techniques. Lots of great holds and good feet. The crux is an awkward, wide section just off the deck. Can be broken into two pitches but also climbs fine as one with a 60 meter rope. Use slings to manage rope drag.

Location

Just right of the Shark Fin Gully. Start beneath a medium sized, brushy oak and head toward an off-width crack with a chock-stone in it about 18' up.

Protection

All traditional. Gear can be somewhat tricky and is runout in spots, particularly the 2nd pitch. Small to large cams and stoppers. Placements range from good to funky or marginal. #4 Camalot useful for crux. It also looks possible to sling the chock-stone.

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