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Routes in South Face

Hidden Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
One Hard Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rack & Pinyon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rigging T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sharks Fin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sickle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sickle Roof T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Spiral Staircase T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sunshine Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Twin Crack Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Crack Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow Edge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,635 total, 13/month
Shared By: Greg DeMatteo on May 24, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Falcon Closures from early February until mid-July. Details
Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

The obvious face to the right of Sickle Roof, this route is classic for its position, exposure and view.

Scramble up to the base and the crux is right off the ground, then easy protectable climbing to the top.

The route can be split up into two pitches and there is a bolt (strange triangle hanger) on a ledge right before the final 20 or 30 feet of the route. Recommended if you need to supervise a less experienced second.

Location

Descend via Shark Fin Gully, the obvious gully climber's right of the route. Requires some 4th class to traverse to from the top of the route. It is a good idea to shortrope or spot inexperienced partners.

Protection

Mostly nuts but a few small cams and TCU's can be helpful. Larger cams necessary for the anchor at the top of the route.

Photos

Travis Gomez
Sedro Woolley, WA
 
Travis Gomez   Sedro Woolley, WA
 
I found the climb to protect well with tricams. Sep 5, 2016
MacM
Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
  5.6
MacM   Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
  5.6
The "triangle hanger bolt" is a triangular glue-in eyebolt, about 30' from the top on a ledge. You may be able to actually rap off of it, especially if you put on a quicklink.
The route itself has marginal pro, at best it takes just nuts and a #1 C4 on route and there is a spot for a thread-through about 10' from the top of the route which protects the topout if needed. The holds are really there, but the gear is sparse. I used a nut and a #1 C4 on the the wall all the way up to the ledge with the bolt, should have just soloed it.
Also, the anchor on top takes #2-#3 C4 really well. Jan 17, 2014