Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,842 total · 13/month
Shared By: Greg DeMatteo on May 24, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details
Access Issue: Falcon Closures from early February until mid-July. Details

Description

The obvious face to the right of Sickle Roof, this route is classic for its position, exposure and view.

Scramble up to the base and the crux is right off the ground, then easy protectable climbing to the top.

The route can be split up into two pitches and there is a bolt (strange triangle hanger) on a ledge right before the final 20 or 30 feet of the route. Recommended if you need to supervise a less experienced second.

Location

Descend via Shark Fin Gully, the obvious gully climber's right of the route. Requires some 4th class to traverse to from the top of the route. It is a good idea to shortrope or spot inexperienced partners.

Protection

Mostly nuts but a few small cams and TCU's can be helpful. Larger cams necessary for the anchor at the top of the route.

Photos

MacM
Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
  5.6
MacM   Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
  5.6
The "triangle hanger bolt" is a triangular glue-in eyebolt, about 30' from the top on a ledge. You may be able to actually rap off of it, especially if you put on a quicklink.
The route itself has marginal pro, at best it takes just nuts and a #1 C4 on route and there is a spot for a thread-through about 10' from the top of the route which protects the topout if needed. The holds are really there, but the gear is sparse. I used a nut and a #1 C4 on the the wall all the way up to the ledge with the bolt, should have just soloed it.
Also, the anchor on top takes #2-#3 C4 really well. Jan 17, 2014
Travis Gomez
Sedro Woolley, WA
 
Travis Gomez   Sedro Woolley, WA
 
I found the climb to protect well with tricams. Sep 5, 2016