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Routes in South Face

Hidden Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
One Hard Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rack & Pinyon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rigging T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sharks Fin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sickle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sickle Roof T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Spiral Staircase T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sunshine Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Twin Crack Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Crack Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow Edge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Page Views: 3,425 total, 27/month
Shared By: Greg DeMatteo on May 24, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

This is the sunniest part of Thumb Butte and can sizzle shoes in the hot months but also provide for decent climbing during the cold. Most routes are low-angle and allow for very creative protection and nutcraft. A few bolted routes exist as well as some crack sections, but most climbs are face climbing with natural pro.
Falcon Closures from early February until mid-July. Details
Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Getting There

Ascend the paved tourist trail to the shoulder and then look for a small climbers trail around to the south side. With packs total approach time is maybe 20 or 30 minutes.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunshine Slab
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sharks Fin
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow Edge
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sunshine Slab 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Sharks Fin 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Yellow Edge 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
More Classic Climbs in South Face »

Weather Averages

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Photos

Mark Miller in the 80's. It's listed in Rusty Baille's Guide. Feb 27, 2012
Pablo-Roberts
Prescott, Arizona
Pablo-Roberts   Prescott, Arizona
Does anyone know if the roof has ever been free climbed? it looks incredible. I have yet to find any knowledge of it being climbed, any one know? Oct 30, 2011

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