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Routes in White Wall

Almost Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Damn the Lieback, Full Stem Ahead! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dining at the Altar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hidden Pleasures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Smell Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
J-Tree Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moon Child Posse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Clear Potato Meltdown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pettifogger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Searching for Sanctuary T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shang S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shining, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thunderstruck S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
White Lightning S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Brian McCray 1997
Page Views: 652 total · 12/month
Shared By: BrianWS on Aug 13, 2013
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

5.11 face climbing over some interesting features leads to a hollow flake (fragile rock!) below a small roof. Struggle through a difficult/awkward sequence to gain a decent rail and easier climbing to the anchors.
Rated 5.12c in the Williams guide, though a fair bit more difficult than the similarly graded Pettifogger.

Location

The middle route on the White Wall, in between Dining at the Altar and Pettifogger. The start has a distinct crescent-shaped rail leading to the high first bolt.
Scramble up to the ledge and traverse left from the start of Pettifogger or climb direct up the seam and dirty face.

Protection

6 bolts and bolted anchor. Stick clip for the first bolt.

Photos

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Drew Hayes
Charlotte, NC
Drew Hayes   Charlotte, NC
I think the crux of this route is significantly harder than the other two routes. It's short-lived, but it's strenuous, scrunchy, tensiony, and wrecks my shoulders (unless the beta I came up with is totally fucked, which is very likely). Jul 11, 2016
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
 
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
 
As I have notoriously weak closed hand strength...how does that even work? lol May 6, 2016
BrianWS  
To each their own! I have notoriously poor open hand strength, so the crux felt much harder to me. I've heard of people calling this a 12b even. Regardless, it's probably the lesser of the three routes on this wall in terms of quality. May 5, 2016
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
 
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
 
I personally thought this route was easier than the other two on the wall. Easy 5.11 climbing to a short crux pulling over the roof. May 5, 2016

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