Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Brian McCray 1997
Page Views: 828 total · 12/month
Shared By: BrianWS on Aug 13, 2013
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

5.11 face climbing over some interesting features leads to a hollow flake (fragile rock!) below a small roof. Struggle through a difficult/awkward sequence to gain a decent rail and easier climbing to the anchors.
Rated 5.12c in the Williams guide, though a fair bit more difficult than the similarly graded Pettifogger.

Location

The middle route on the White Wall, in between Dining at the Altar and Pettifogger. The start has a distinct crescent-shaped rail leading to the high first bolt.
Scramble up to the ledge and traverse left from the start of Pettifogger or climb direct up the seam and dirty face.

Protection

6 bolts and bolted anchor. Stick clip for the first bolt.

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Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
 
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
 
I personally thought this route was easier than the other two on the wall. Easy 5.11 climbing to a short crux pulling over the roof. May 5, 2016
BrianWS
5.12+
BrianWS  
5.12+
To each their own! I have notoriously poor open hand strength, so the crux felt much harder to me. I've heard of people calling this a 12b even. Regardless, it's probably the lesser of the three routes on this wall in terms of quality. May 5, 2016
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
 
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
 
As I have notoriously weak closed hand strength...how does that even work? lol May 6, 2016