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Routes in White Wall

Almost Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Damn the Lieback, Full Stem Ahead! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dining at the Altar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hidden Pleasures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Smell Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
J-Tree Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moon Child Posse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Clear Potato Meltdown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pettifogger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Searching for Sanctuary T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shang S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shining, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thunderstruck S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
White Lightning S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Ken McClain, Doug Cosby
Page Views: 923 total, 10/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Aug 4, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This one's a good warm-up for Thunder Struck. The crux is at the beginning, so stick clip the first bolt. It's a very hard 10b. When I climb it, I always put the stick back in the bush to the right of the route.

Location

Right of Thunder Struck

Protection

4 bolts to anchor.

Photos

I did this route for the first time 4/16/17 and thought the bottom was quite difficult. I thought it was much harder than 10b at the bottom so it does seem possible that the route has changed. Apr 26, 2017
Tim Salizzoni
Charlotte, NC
Tim Salizzoni   Charlotte, NC
Climbed this on the morning of 7/9/16 and 10b seemed right. Didn't see any obvious broken holds though so maybe we were on it pre-break. Jul 19, 2016
elimedvescek
Tucson, AZ
elimedvescek   Tucson, AZ
Was at the NRG this weekend, someone at the campground mentioned that a hold at the beginning of the route had recently broken off, pushing the grade of the beginning of the climb to 5.10d/11a. Can anyone corroborate? Jul 11, 2016