Type: Sport, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: Brucker/Cellier/Meot - July 2007
Page Views: 2,149 total · 16/month
Shared By: Seleucus on Jul 17, 2013
Admins: Luc-514, David Riley, Bogdan Petre

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Description Suggest change

Though new, this route provides excellent and moderate climbing to reach a beautiful and sharp peak in the Aiguilles Rouges.

Pitch 1 (5.4): This short pitch can be bypassed.

Pitch 2 (5.8): A beautiful chimney leads to face moves before topping out on a grassy section where the belay is located.

Pitch 3 (5.7): More of a linking pitch, do one move of 5.7 up a vertical wall before reaching a belay at the top.

Pitch 4 (5.8): Enjoyable 5.8 climbing leads to a grassy terrace with the belay.

Pitch 5 (walking): Walk together for around 60 meters to the right side of the face at the top of the grassy terrace.

Pitch 6 (5.9): Do easy (5.7) moves before coming to a vertical wall. Pull through a small overhang (5.9) and come to a nice belay a few meters after.

Pitch 7 (5.2): Easy climbing leads to the top of the subsidiary gendarme. From the top, rappel ~20 m to the col between the gendarme and the main peak (the Clocher de Planpraz).

Pitch 8 (5.7): Climb the arete to the summit of the Clocher.

Location Suggest change

See description for Clocher de Planpraz for getting to the route.

Protection Suggest change

Very well bolted, a set of 7 quickdraws will suffice. After the abseil at the end of pitch 7, you may wish to have a set of nuts as I only remember one bolt at this relay station.

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