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> Clocher de Planpraz
Clocher Clochetons Traverse
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Clocher de Planpraz
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Clocher Clochetons Traverse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cocher Cochon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Label Virginie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Lepiney, et al 1913 |
| Page Views: | 1,368 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Marsters on Jul 14, 2019 |
| Admins: | Luc-514, David Riley, Bogdan Petre |
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Description
A popular guided or guide-apprentice outing, expect this to be busy on a nice day. Particularly if the Flegere lift in closed (2019) and the crowds are flocking to Plan Praz. I'd consider this a tad more difficult if considerably shorter than Cochues-Belvedere.
1. P1, 20 m. Start up a low 5th corner and flake system on the south face for several meters before wrapping around to the east face on a ledge. Some bolts take the arete with perhaps less drag, but most continue a few feet along the ledge to a wide crack. Follow the wide crack, with an opportunity to move slightly right to thinner cracks and gear placements if you desire.
Rappel the other/west side off old iron, maybe 15 m over blocky terrain.
2. P2, 15 m. Scramble the next point at 4th class.
Rappel in two stages to the notch, roughly 15 m and 20 m off old iron and tat. I'm not sure if a 70 will make it, but probably.
3. P3, 15 m. Climb the vague right-facing corner-crack system facing the rappel/south at 5.6-5.7. Clip a few pins en route to iron rings.
The next part is perhaps why this route is considered a classic for many. There are two iron T-rods across a 2 meter gap (yes, some have jumped this). Lasso them and use some light ingenuity to tyrolean across and retrieve your rope.
The tyrolean can be bypassed with a simple rappel north.
4. P4, 5 m. Top out the point you tyroleaned to via 5.5-5.6 face moves.
Rappel 15 m east to the base of a chimney.
5. P5, 15 m. Climb the awkward chimney (5.8) and mantle onto the summit. Some webbing around a chock might provide aid for those who need it.
Rappel or down-scramble north 10 m to a ledge. Some may choose to continue the rappel on the east side of the ridge another 15 m. Otherwise, the scramble clocks in somewhere around 5.0.
Hike down the grassy gully a couple hundred meters, picking up vague trails, until hitting the obvious trail back to Plan Praz.
1. P1, 20 m. Start up a low 5th corner and flake system on the south face for several meters before wrapping around to the east face on a ledge. Some bolts take the arete with perhaps less drag, but most continue a few feet along the ledge to a wide crack. Follow the wide crack, with an opportunity to move slightly right to thinner cracks and gear placements if you desire.
Rappel the other/west side off old iron, maybe 15 m over blocky terrain.
2. P2, 15 m. Scramble the next point at 4th class.
Rappel in two stages to the notch, roughly 15 m and 20 m off old iron and tat. I'm not sure if a 70 will make it, but probably.
3. P3, 15 m. Climb the vague right-facing corner-crack system facing the rappel/south at 5.6-5.7. Clip a few pins en route to iron rings.
The next part is perhaps why this route is considered a classic for many. There are two iron T-rods across a 2 meter gap (yes, some have jumped this). Lasso them and use some light ingenuity to tyrolean across and retrieve your rope.
The tyrolean can be bypassed with a simple rappel north.
4. P4, 5 m. Top out the point you tyroleaned to via 5.5-5.6 face moves.
Rappel 15 m east to the base of a chimney.
5. P5, 15 m. Climb the awkward chimney (5.8) and mantle onto the summit. Some webbing around a chock might provide aid for those who need it.
Rappel or down-scramble north 10 m to a ledge. Some may choose to continue the rappel on the east side of the ridge another 15 m. Otherwise, the scramble clocks in somewhere around 5.0.
Hike down the grassy gully a couple hundred meters, picking up vague trails, until hitting the obvious trail back to Plan Praz.
Location
From the Plan Praz lift, head up the road towards Brevent. At a noticable signed junction a hundred meters up, leave the road for switchbacks heading steeply up towards Brevent. After a few long switchbacks, leave the main trail for a side trail (currently has a red and white X on a stone step at the start). Follow this vague trail up, watching for cairns, through talus to the base of the route/ south face of clocher.
A better start might involve Cocher Cochon.
A better start might involve Cocher Cochon.
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