All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Staunton Rocks > Ranch Hand

Lonesome Dove, Angry Falcon

Name: Lonesome Dove, Angry Falcon
Rating: 2.0

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13

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Routes in The Ranch Hand

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Face in the Crowd S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Biscuits 'n' Gravy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Corn Bread T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Lasso The Longhorn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Lonesome Dove, Angry Falcon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Marmot Man T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Shimmy Shimmy Strut Strut S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tamale Kisses T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Waiting for the Summer Rain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Type:	Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	39.51716, -105.39888
FA:	Kevin Stricker, Dave Montgomery, Mike Morin
Page Views:	1,451 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Leo Paik on May 28, 2013
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Description

This is a good route that climbs better than it looks from below. Originally, this was done as a 70m pitch. The first pitch is the better of the pitches by a bit.

P1. Ascend the second from the right of the steep dihedrals. From the ground, this appears to be a groove, but closer up it is a subtle, right-facing dihedral. A couple bulgy sections require good stemming to make it moderate. Above the dihedral, the climbing eases, but the protection options fade. Belay at a ledge near a boulder-like knob, 5.8 PG-13, 150'.

P2. Continue upward on grittier lower-angle face to the top. It is a bit runout, but the difficulty is low, 5.4 PG-13, 150'.

Walk off northward, and downclimb a ramp system (4th class) on the right. Hike down the forested slopes back to the base. Apparently, there are some old bolts somewhere up there, too.

Location

This is on the right side of The Ranch Hand. It starts off 60 feet left on a ledge above a low-angled slab where you hop a big dead log onto the ledge. Currently, it appears to be the 3rd from the right of the routes here.