All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Staunton Rocks > Ranch Hand

Biscuits 'n' Gravy

Name: Biscuits 'n' Gravy
Rating: 2.4

5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British

Routes in The Ranch Hand

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Face in the Crowd S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Biscuits 'n' Gravy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Corn Bread T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Lasso The Longhorn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Lonesome Dove, Angry Falcon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Marmot Man T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Shimmy Shimmy Strut Strut S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tamale Kisses T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Waiting for the Summer Rain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Type:	Trad, 380 ft (115 m), 3 pitches
GPS:	39.51716, -105.39888
FA:	Mike Morin, Dave Cadwallader, Andrew Speers, Aug. 2012
Page Views:	4,788 total · 31/month
Shared By:	Rick Blair on Oct 2, 2013 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Description

This is a fantastic first lead route and should be judged as such, especially pitch 1 and 3. It has abundant gear and belay ledge options. The views of Staunton Park and the surrounding mountains are fantastic.

P1. Follow obvious crack system to pine tree. Either belay above to the right of the tree or head to second smaller tree and belay there. This is mostly 5.2 with a short 5.4 section to belay.

P2. Go left and follow the obvious crack or gully to the second belay at the ledge, 5.4.

P3. Follow slabs to the summit, 5.2.

Location

This is at the bottom of the Ranch Hand. Follow the climber's access trail marked 'CA', pass Bombadier Dome. The next dome you see coming off the trail is the Ranch Hand. Look uphill for the crack leading to the 2 trees.

Protection

Not necessary, but if you have big gear you could go up to a #5 Camalot or #7 tricam. There are abundant finger to fist gear placements on this route, so you can leave the big stuff at home.