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Routes in The Ranch Hand

Biscuits 'n' Gravy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Corn Bread T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lasso The Longhorn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lonesome Dove, Angry Falcon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Marmot Man T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 380 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mike Morin, Dave Cadwallader, Andrew Speers, Aug. 2012
Page Views: 1,625 total, 32/month
Shared By: Rick Blair on Oct 2, 2013 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Falcon Nesting Closures Details
Falcon Closures Details

Description

This is a fantastic first lead route and should be judged as such, especially pitch 1 and 3. It has abundant gear and belay ledge options. The views of Staunton Park and the surrounding mountains are fantastic.

P1. Follow obvious crack system to pine tree. Either belay above to the right of the tree or head to second smaller tree and belay there. This is mostly 5.2 with a short 5.4 section to belay.

P2. Go left and follow the obvious crack or gully to the second belay at the ledge, 5.4.

P3. Follow slabs to the summit, 5.2.

Location

This is at the bottom of the Ranch Hand. Follow the climber's access trail marked 'CA', pass Bombadier Dome. The next dome you see coming off the trail is the Ranch Hand. Look uphill for the crack leading to the 2 trees.

Protection

Not necessary, but if you have big gear you could go up to a #5 Camalot or #7 tricam. There are abundant finger to fist gear placements on this route, so you can leave the big stuff at home.

Photos

Noah Yetter
Lakewood, CO
  5.5 R
Noah Yetter   Lakewood, CO
  5.5 R
"P2. Go left and follow the obvious crack or gully to the second belay at the ledge, 5.4."

It's less obvious than this wording suggests. Above and to the left of the first belay there are *two* gullies, to the left and right of a prominent rib. The right one eventually leads to a ledge where it's not possible to build an anchor. Take the left one. Expect killer rope drag.

"P3. Follow slabs to the summit, 5.2."

The path from the second belay to the top is pretty obvious and easy, but it's hardly "slabs". The rock here is highly featured and broken, with a few large chunks that don't seem particularly solid.

P2 and P3 are pretty runout IMHO. The terrain is easy, so it's not really unsafe, but you will go 20+ feet between placements sometimes.

The "walk-off" is more like a short 5.0 downclimb followed by a punitive bushwhack (as Justin mentioned above). We came across some rap tat but elected to do the downclimb for fun. Mar 13, 2017
Rick Blair
Denver
 
Rick Blair   Denver
 
Justin, I have a beta picture of the decent on the main Ranch Hand page. I think it goes pretty reasonably, very secure 4th class. I don't think it's worth leaving tat up there, but if you can't find the way down, by all means be safe.

Remember to pay attention to bird closures. Jun 24, 2015
This is a fun beginner lead for someone who hasn't lead a multi-pitch trad route before. The views from the top are amazing! One piece of advice don't believe the guidebook when it says you can walk off. The only way you'll walk off is you happen to have a hoverboard in your rack. We found a tree you rap off of on the north east corner of the dome. Look for some cairns, and you should find a tree with some webbing you can use too descend, we use a 60m rope and it was more than enough to gets us down. Once you are on the ground, it is definitely a bushwhack to get back to the trail. I hop this helps anyone who has been wondering how to get off this route. Jun 20, 2015