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Routes in The Ranch Hand

Biscuits 'n' Gravy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Corn Bread T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lasso The Longhorn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lonesome Dove, Angry Falcon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Marmot Man T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 205 ft
FA: Doug Redosh, Dave Rogers, LP?
Page Views: 1,181 total, 22/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 28, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Falcon Nesting Closures Details
Falcon Closures Details

Description

This is a line just to the right of Lasso The Longhorn. It may have been climbed previously. If so, let me know and I can update the name and FA info. It was visually more appealing than the first pitch of Lasso The Longhorn, and it was fairly clean.

P1. Climb a left-angling crack off a ledge above a slab on the right side of Ranch Hand Dome. The crack gets easier to protect as you go higher. Pleasant knobs keep the difficulty low. After you secure some protection in the crack below the fist crack of Lasso The Longhorn, move back right and pull the bulge to the right. Continue up lightly protected slabby face to belay at the horn, 5.7, 205'.

P2. Continue up as for Lasso The Longhorn to the top of the dome, 5.3 PG-13, 100'.

Scramble to the top of the dome to the north. Carefully find a ledge system on the right that angles down to walking terrain, 4th class.

Location

This ascends a left-angling crack just to the right of the near-vertical face on which Lasso The Longhorn and Lonesome Dome, Angry Falcon start.

Protection

A rack to a #3 Camalot works. Small cams are quite useful.

Photos

Brian Bourquin
Denver, CO
Brian Bourquin   Denver, CO
We downclimbed this route when bailing off Lasso because of rain. It was enjoyable even in reverse. May 10, 2014
Bret Rhinesmith  
  5.7
Very enjoyable route. Since I was belaying two second climbers, we did the following variation:

P1. Belay below the fist crack of Lasso the Longhorn at approximately 30 m [100 ft] near a small tree with a good crack for a three piece trad anchor. This enabled us to maintain visual contact during the first pitch.



P2. I got off route and basically got on Lasso the Longhorn starting at the fist crack. Very enjoyable, the runout was interesting. After slinging the two horns, set-up a belay near the top at a left facing outcrop (approximately 60m [200 ft]).

We then gained the top via 4th class climbing. Make sure to check out Parkview Dome via the slot below the true summit.

Descent: near the downclimb ledge on the north side of the dome, there was a tree with a sling and locking biner (thanks to those that left this gear). Since we had two ropes, the double (60m) ropes made for an easy rappel to the base. In the future, this is what I would do since the down-climb/4th class ledge is exposed.

Jul 21, 2013