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Routes in The Widowmaker Area

Bitter Smile Stand V5 6C
Double Heelix V4 6B
Handyman, The V3 6A
Paint Chips V2-3 5+
Single Heelix V0 4
Sunset Crack V4 6B
Widow Leftside V5 6C
Widowmaker V3 6A
Type: Boulder
FA: Emmanuel Hudon 4/28/13
Page Views: 33 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on May 3, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This is an interesting and unique problem that climbs the right side of the main Widowmaker face. It has a sketchy start, strange routefinding, and a hair-raising topout. One must be pretty handy to successfully complete this problem.

Start standing on the slab on the right. This slab sticks out from the base of the boulder, so make sure to pad it correctly and be mindful of the edge when you do the first few moves of the problem. Reach high to a good hold at the lip, pull onto the wall, and start traversing left. Traverse a few moves left, about to the center of the wall, and then figure out the topout. Luckily, the leftward traverse moves one away from the scary slab ledge below, so the topout, though heady, has a pretty good landing below it.

Protection

Multiple pads

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
There seems to be a real hard project, that would be a direct start to this route. We scrubbed it and put a couple tries in before realizing the grade will probable settle in the double digits, somewhere from v10+ to v12-, would be the guess.

It starts on two good crimps and make a long move to a terrible slopey gaston which you would match and toss to the lip. If you have strong tendons and an even stronger core give it a shot. Sep 10, 2013