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Routes in Smokeys Cave

Billy Goat V2 5+
Incandescence V4 6B
Kobe's Achilles V5 6C
Tempest, The V6 7A
newtons groove V4 6B
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Tyler Starbard
Page Views: 831 total, 15/month
Shared By: r. tyler gross on Apr 15, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start on jugs low and left from The Tempest. Comes out to good holds and make an awesome move up and right into a left open handed sloper knob. Match and finish straight up!

Protection

pads

Photos

Ah unfortunately we kind of knew this was inevitable. I even remember telling folks to "try and do it before it breaks"
The tempest seemed to be "the line" of the cave - hopefully it stands the test of time! As of about a month ago, I went up there and it seemed to still be in good condition- I swear that rail you match on near the lip keeps getting a little bigger each time I go there Apr 17, 2014
Antonio Labaro  
  V4+
I went back to this cave today and found the left-hand flake cleanly broken off and laying on the ground. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like it left behind anything usable. Apr 14, 2014
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I went here for the first time, and while the cave looks awesome, this particular line seemed to be VERY much in flux. All the lower crimps were super sandy and on the verge of breaking. I didn't even try it for fear of falling on my back. I'm sure it will be more established someday... May 22, 2013
Nice work!
I'm also around 5'8" and had to toe down for the throw. Definitely a rad move!

We'll see what happens to a few of these holds with more traffic. The nature of this sandstone seems to forever be in a state of flux. Apr 29, 2013
Antonio Labaro  
  V4+
The big left hand move to the flake is amazing. I'm 5'8", so instead of that heel hook shown in the video, I pushed my left toe as far/hard into the incut crimp as I could and threw up for the knob very dynamically. The left toe is key.

I also noticed that the good left crimp starts to flex as you put weight towards the right side of the hold, but it seems pretty solid as long as you stay towards the left. Apr 29, 2013