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Routes in Smokeys Cave

Description

An awesome cave featuring a few lines. It is in the shade all hours of the day.

Getting There

From Johnny Bigmouth head directly over the hill towards the highest point on the nearest horizon (along the ridge towards the gun club). A light trail leads you through brush and about 30 yds. on the right is a another cut trail that leads/wraps around a large sandstone shelf about ground level. Follow this around the shelf and into the cave.
(grades are suggested, opinions are encouraged)

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Smokeys Cave

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 7
Billy Goat
Boulder
V4 6B
 4
Incandescence
Boulder
V6 7A
 8
The Tempest
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Billy Goat
 7
V2 5+ Boulder
Incandescence
 4
V4 6B Boulder
The Tempest
 8
V6 7A Boulder
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Photos

Please correct me if this area has been climbed before. There was evidence of people being there but not climbing (i.e. broken bottles, one etching "LA"). I had to clean a lot of dead brush and rocks from the cave and clean many holds to make it climb-able. The whole development process is so rewarding :) Apr 12, 2013
Looks like a cool cave for sure. I don't recognize it off hand from these pics, but I'm headed out to Lizards Mouth tomorrow so maybe I'll take a looksey... Apr 12, 2013
Sean Denny
Irvine
Sean Denny   Irvine
I seem to recall seeing this a long time ago. Is this a few hundred feet down the wide drainage from Gulf City Traverse, Kathy Moffat, etc? I lost my O11, but I remember there were a bunch of problems supposedly downhill from The Mouth itself, and I always assumed they were in this cave.
Sorry about the ambiguity, I'm going off 5 year old memories. I guess I would suggest asking Bob, he'll know for certain.

Regardless, major props for cleaning it up and getting some climbing done. If this is the same cave I remember, there was a ton of trash down there. Apr 13, 2013
vimeo.com/64457572 Apr 20, 2013
Don't remember seeing that cave, but looks pretty good. I never really ventured that far towards Gun Club territory. Kelly Lindsay would know better than me anyways.

Hey Sean, did you lose your O11 at Lizard's Mouth? I found a copy up there maybe 3-4 years ago and still have it sitting on my shelf. I put up a note about it, but never heard from anybody. Pretty easy to identify since there's personal photos and tick lists inside of it. Apr 22, 2013
Sean Denny
Irvine
Sean Denny   Irvine
Hey Bob,
Unfortunately, that is definitely not my copy. Mine vanished into the ether somewhere in LA. Thanks for asking though! Apr 23, 2013
Hey Tyler, if this is the cave with the little roof crack in it on top of the hill in front of Kelly's Hill, it has been climbed. There used to be no chaparral up there after they did the fire abadement project in 2004. Joel Brown showed this to me, and there was quite a few problems put up there that are now pretty overwhelmed with vegetation. Apr 26, 2013
Hey Kelly-
This cave i would call behind Kelly's Hill. If you come from parking and head up the hill- one has to pass all the boulders (including the mini roof crack and johnny bigmouth) and continue up and over the hill.
(I will go up there with ya anytime)
We could be talking about the same area but I'm still not sure.. (you are a walking guidebook :)

I think the last time we climbed together was up at johnnybm a few yrs. ago and there was no mention of it?
Whether climbed before or not, there are some cool lines to check out!
Thanks for the input everyone. see you out there Apr 26, 2013
Great job on the find! Hopefully it isn't the cave I am thinking of. Lets get out there soon, and I will show you some more areas if you are interested. There are still some good lines to be had out there, along with the secret classics down the hill a ways. Apr 26, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Great cave. There's a handful of some hard projects for those with crank, vision, and a brush. May 22, 2013

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