Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Larry Scritchfield, Andy Norman 1987
Page Views: 852 total · 12/month
Shared By: Chris Weidner on Mar 1, 2013
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


A strenuous route with surprising features that keep the grade at mid-5.11. Without them this route would be MUCH harder.

P1: Squirm up a tight chimney to a small pedestal on a slab below the roof. This belay is highly recommended due to a rope-eating constriction at the top of the chimney. 5.7, 40 feet. (Small cams and nuts for the anchor).

P2: Pad up the dirty slab to the very steep offwidth. Contort your way out the short but memorable crack. 5.11b, 40 feet.

The best spot to make an anchor is atop Laugh With the Sinners, about 15 feet south (toward The Fox). Gear for top anchor: #1TCU, #2 Camalot, #4 Camalot.


Begin about 100 feet right of The Fox, at the base of a chimney leading to an offwidth roof in a large right-facing corner.


1ea. #.4 - #3 Camalot; medium to large Nuts
2ea. #4, #5 Camalot


Jon O'Brien
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
i like the billy joel reference in your naming... May 7, 2013
Larry   SoAZ
I climbed this in 1987. It's called "Tooth Decay." May 30, 2014
Chris Weidner
Chris Weidner  
I climbed this in February, 2013 thinking it was a new route. I called it "Cry With the Saints." Proud effort by Larry and Andy! Oct 3, 2014
Evan Wisheropp
Evan Wisheropp  
I was able to link it in one pitch by placing a #1 to keep the rope from pinching. The slab is fine, and has a solid .5/.75 (clipped 48"). You can bump two #4s out the roof, also clipped 48". I then used an old #4 and a new #5 both clipped 24" and bumped them. The face features nessesary are super chossy, so I wouldn't feel comfortable having my belayer on the slab below. It's best you don't put too much force on the chossy jugs since they flex significantly; stay in the crack. I'd give it IC/Moab 11c if minimizing the use of the chossy face features. Four stars for the coolness, one star for rock quality/cleanness. Jan 6, 2018