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Routes in The Fox Area

Bathe Hah and Bring Hah to Me T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fat and Hungry T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fox, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Laugh With the Sinners T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lean and Languid T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loosely Put T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tooth Decay T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: John Williamson and Bob Logerquist
Page Views: 23,718 total, 150/month
Shared By: AJ on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is a very clean right facing corner a few hundred feet above the desert floor. It is a fantastic pitch on perfect desert varnish.

Start directly below the dihedral and follow discontinuous holds and finger locks 20' up to the dihedral proper. From here, climb the nice jam crack, gradually widening from thin hands to an offwidth section about 70' up the corner. A #4 camalot is mandatory for this section, two would be nice. Bring a #5 if you have one. After a few secure wide crack moves (some face holds are helpful here too), you will surmount a slight bulge and continue up a low angle 5" crack to the top. The descent is easy and obvious.

Protection

to 5"
e Dixon
Durango, Colorado
 
e Dixon   Durango, Colorado
 
A #3 Camalot was the biggest I brought...and the top, while easy and low-angle, was pretty runout. A big cam would have made it more comfortable. Jun 22, 2011
Weston L
Summerlin, NV
  5.10c
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
  5.10c
Whoever chopped the anchor bolts on this thing did a very poor job. Why bother chopping if you aren't going to patch and fill? Aug 17, 2017
Trevor Rhodes
Fredericksburg, VA
 
Trevor Rhodes   Fredericksburg, VA
 
Absolutely stellar climb. We were expecting a bolted anchor per previous posts, but found the bolts had been chopped. Mar 26, 2017
ewetzel  
Yep, anchor is gone -- found it easy to build one though with approximately a BD #1 & #2, and little yellow metolious. Great climb! Feb 26, 2017
The bolted anchor is gone:( unfortunate considering that this is an amazing single pitch and the anchor was in a great place. Also, you can lower off of the top with a 70m. Just knot your end! Feb 25, 2017
Brian Braunstein
Schaffhausen, Switzerland
Brian Braunstein   Schaffhausen, Switzerland
On sighted this with a suboptimal rack, here's what i wish i had in BD sizes.

1x .2, .5 - 1
2x 2 - 4
3x 5

Could skip the second #3 too, i only used 1

I jammed a #6 in place of having a third 5 and almost got it stuck. 60m rope works but care must be taken because it only reaches the very top of the easily scramblable area above the comfortable belay stance, knots highly advised. Nov 28, 2016
Arin Earl
  5.10d
Arin Earl  
  5.10d
Didn't unload my #6 but could have unloaded more than one #5 and #4.
One of the anchor bolts is loose, possibly a spinner. I didn't have anything to try and tighten it. Other than that, the hardware looks good. Aug 22, 2016
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
There's a bolted rap anchor at the top now and you can rap to the base with a single 60m. Jan 17, 2016
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
felt like a second 5 would be more useful than a 6. evidently there're now bolted rap chains on top. led with a 54m rope and did the easy walkoff Nov 21, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Great climb. Perhaps over graded if you are accustomed to Indian Creek Corners already. Hard part is #3 camalots. Top part is wide but not so hard. Don't let the grade intimidate you. The climb is worth the try. May 29, 2015
MN norske
Henderson
MN norske   Henderson
Did this the other day. Classic crack. Someone slung the boulder at the top with a rope for an easy way to anchor. Left some blood on the wall halfway up. Also you can TR it with 70 with easy with plenty of rope left over. May 26, 2014
David Aguasca!
New York
  5.10+
David Aguasca!   New York
  5.10+
Another vote for gear to 5". Also save some 0.5-2 camalot gear for the anchor. Apr 22, 2014
Would have lines at the base even at indian creek.

green alien (can be backed up with a blue alien) to protect the bouldery crack at the start. 1 .5 1.75 2 1s 1 #2, 2 4s 2 3s 1 #5, No 6 if you are comfortable on lower angle easy but awkward slanting OW Apr 1, 2014
bethan
Leaving Los Andes, Chile fo…
bethan   Leaving Los Andes, Chile fo…
Beautiful lead. A creek trip is in order for thin hands training. The OW is secure. The top OW is even more secure + leaving the #5 at your feet for a 10 foot runout isn't intimidating. I used 2 #1's and a #2 for the anchor directly in line with climb. No laybackng required but could be fun on TR for the pump. Friendly folks to chat with at the base. Also it was blowing from the SW 40 plus gusts at the parking area and the Fox alcove was completely protected. Will return for another lap :-) Apr 17, 2013
Canon
  5.10+
Canon  
  5.10+
Phenomenal! From fingers to chicken-winging in an OW, and I lost the skin on my elbows to prove it! Can be top-roped with a 70m (barely), but without extending the anchor there will be some solid rope drag. Decent semi-rests whenever it switches from fingers to hands, or hands to fists, or fists to "lets see what we can shove in there". Dec 8, 2012
213blc
THA WEST COAST
  5.10+
213blc   THA WEST COAST
  5.10+
My first Red Rock climb.

WOW. Feb 19, 2012
Phil Esra  
 
I placed a #5 and a #6. I brought a second #5 but never managed to unload it. Great climb--like an offwidth version of Indian Creek's Black Uhuru. Nov 29, 2011
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
But if there were bolts up top we could all TR it into submission without having to think about setting up an anchor... then it would get as grooved up as anything in IC since most folks would be too lazy to properly extend their anchor. No Thanks. Great gear anchor, great walkoff. If a few more cams on the harness cause you to blow the send, train harder. Aug 30, 2010
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Almost half the route is bigger than #4 camalot size. I took one 4 and one 5 and felt quite runout, though the top 20 feet is lower angle and easy. Rack accordingly. No need for bolted anchor. Easy walkoff and belay takes bomber #1 and #2 camalots. Indian creek quality May 20, 2010
Buster Jesik
Allenspark, CO
Buster Jesik   Allenspark, CO
sweet pitch, could use a bolted anchor though Apr 25, 2010
I did quite a bit of free climbing in this area and knew John Williamson until about 1972. Any climbing here is sure to be awesome if the park has been preserved.
Does anyone know where John is or what became of him? He was a true nature lover, last time I saw him was North Shore Lake Tahoe and he was living in an eloquent Tee Pee. starke49@pacbell.net Mar 13, 2010
meo
meo  
Never thought I'd get this one but it went down yesterday:)
I climbed it in sections utilizing three semi-rest spots with good foot placements. Bring one 5.0 or a 6.0 so won't have to run the last part of OW out.
There was no fixed anchor at the top. Someone chopped the sling. Plenty of options for a natural anchor. Nov 26, 2008
A truly amazing climb! One of my favorite single pitch routes. I liebacked most of the route (on T.R.), which tore some of the skin off my upper palms, and fingers. Ouch! I suggest taping up. A worthwhile climb, with a short approach (by Red Rock standards),and an easy walk-off/descent. You won't be disappointed! Hell of a work-out, for me anyway!
This route is shaded in the afternoon, which makes it doable in the summer. Jul 29, 2006
Jake Martin  
 
Bring 2 4 camalots if you got'em and a 3.5 for the top. As mentioned, a 5 or 4.5 wouldn't hurt the cause either if your a bit sketch on the wide stuff. Sweet pitch, right on at 10 plus (and no easier). Feb 28, 2005
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d
This route is simply amazing- to have led it in the 70's would have been bold beyond comprehension! It starts out with thin hands, but opens up quickly and by the time you're at the midpoint- your #4 camalots are already in use. I used 4 cams larger than the #3 on this route, including the #6 C4.

Great route, though...well worth doing! Feb 8, 2005
That's a nice piece of history, Larry. Thanks for putting this together.

I haven't tried the route, but from your description it would have been quite something to lead back in 1970, mostly with pitons I presume -- even hexentrics and tube chocks were a year or two away. Bong-bongs take much energy to place, but they never gave me much confidence for free climbing on sandstone. Feb 3, 2005
Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
Larry DeAngelo   Las Vegas, NV  
Historical note: What's in a name?

On page 45 of the Supertopo Red Rock guidebook is a dramatic photo of this route by Greg Epperson. The caption reads, "Peter Kohl on the fabulous 8th Wave, Calico Basin." Where did THAT name come from? Here is the story:

The route was climbed in 1970 by local high-schoolers John Williamson and Bob Logerquist. "It was pretty intimidating," recalls John. "We did it a few times on top rope before we got up the courage to lead the thing." John and Bob named it "The Fox," which was in keeping with several other route names that referred to children's stories. The nearby "Riding Hood" and "Over the Hill to Grandmother's House" shared a similar reference to children's books. Soon afterward, John left Las Vegas to attend college. At the time there was almost no other climbing activity in the area, so the ascent was essentially unknown to climbers who were not personal friends of John or Bob. Over the next few years climbing activity picked up considerably as Joe Herbst began to make a more systematic exploration of the area. Interestingly, Joe's early activity started mainly in the south part of the range, while John was working from the north end, and the two climbers never met. One of Joe's apprentices was the later-to-be-famous Red Rock guide, Randal Grandstaff. A young Randal accompanied Joe on the first ascent of Tunnel Vision in 1974, and soon emerged as an accomplished climber in his own right. At this point the story becomes a little muddy. In the middle 1970's, Randal claimed a first ascent of the Fox dihedral, and apparently named it the "7th Wave." This was the first name that Joanne Urioste heard when she arrived in Las Vegas at about that time. Some other climbers who were active then also recalled the "7th Wave" name. In the 1990's, Randal was still claiming a first ascent when he was talking with author Todd Swain. Randal made his claim with such vehemence that Todd recorded the route as "first ascent: unknown" in order to not step on Randal's toes. The thing that makes the situation sticky is that, even in the 1970's, Randal had developed a reputation for exaggeration about his exploits, so many local climbers simply did not believe him. His case was not helped by the evolution of the name: was it still 7th Wave, or was he now calling it the 8th Wave, or something else? Some of the locals expressed their doubt by putting up a route that was facetiously named "No Wave," (this was the first couple of pitches of the route that was later expanded to become the Bighorn Buttress in Willow Springs).

In the late 1970's, John Williamson returned to Las Vegas. By chance, he met up with the Uriostes and did a few climbs with them. It was, coincidentally, on this trip that they teamed up to climb the now popular Olive Oil. John told them of his early climbs, and pointed out the Fox dihedral. Since John's ascent predated any possible Grandstaff ascent by several years, Joanne credited him with the first ascent and used his name, "The Fox," when she authored the 1984 guidebook. Before the 1984 guide gave the Fox name any kind of official status, there was a period where both names were circulating, and the one you heard was dependent on whom you heard it from. Since the Epperson photograph in the Supertopo guidebook dates back to early 1980's, it is probably safe to conclude that the route name came from someone on the Randal Grandstaff side of the story. Feb 2, 2005