Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 3 pitches
FA: Peter Croft and Hayden Kennedy
Page Views: 4,482 total · 31/month
Shared By: hkennedy on Feb 14, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

Mt. Goode is totally rad and if you are looking for some steep granite cracks this variation is bitching! Peter and I added three new pitches to the right of the North Buttress on a steep and obviously featured wall. The rock is awesome, get on it!

***Croft G.G.A "deluxe" variation 5.11-***

P1/P2: same as the North Buttress route, can be linked with a 60m rope. Note that both the MP and High Sierra Guidebook topos have this listed as one pitch, not two, which may be confusing.

P3: 5.10a. Climb straight up on your choice of several crack and corner systems aiming for the huge right facing dihedral high above you.  Stop at the tiny ledge with a 2 piton anchor.  20m

P4: 5.11a.  Climb the thin crack straight off the anchor for 30 or 40 feet.  When the crack starts to run out look for some thin face features and make a short traverse left into another thin crack.  Climb this second crack up to the inverted slab roof at the very bottom of the headwall.  about a body length above the base of the inverted slab roof is a fixed pin, climb to this and traverse left again into a finger crack on the orange headwall.  climb the finger crack to a plush triangle ledge belay out on the prow of the massive leftside arete. 30m

P5: 5.10. From the belay ledge on the prow of the arete climb the thin hands/fingers crack back out on the the main face of the orange headwall.  When able make a rightward step across into the obvious and amazing laser cut wide hands splitter.  Climb the crack to the top of the head wall, and belay on any one of numerous ledges. 30m to 60m depending on where one builds the belay.

From here rejoin the regular North Buttress route to the summit.

***Kennedy variation 5.11+/5.12***

P1. Same as the North Buttress route.

P2. Easy and short 5.8 pitch to large ledge bellow the steep wall. Belay on solid cams.

P3. Interesting 5.11 climbing with thin gear and face climbing. Belay on a small ledge with solid cams and one fixed pin.

P4. The money pitch! Amazing fingers/hands splitter through a small roof (5.11+). Belay on a big ledge with solid cams.

From this point follow the North Buttress to the summit.

Protection Suggest change

Double set of cams to #3, thin nuts

Same descent as the North Buttress

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