Type: | Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Zach Eiten and Emma Ely (7/16/24) |
Page Views: | 62 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Zach Eiten on Jul 27, 2024 |
Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Pitch 1 (5.9, 50m) Climb the dihedral just to the right of the “Goode Earth” start. Dual finger cracks take you up the corner. The crack on the left is tips at first, but then is sustained splitter fingers. Step left into the “Green Dihedral” of “Goode Earth” just below a block with a large crack filled with rubble. Once in the dihedral, climb the first fingers/ tight hands crack on the right. Then angle up and left via a finger crack and mantle onto the ledge below the obvious Offwidth crack.
Pitch 2: The Wide Crack (5.9+, 30m) Fear not, it’s not as hard as it looks and has plenty of sneaky features. Work your way up into the wide crack. It starts as #3’s then works its way into #4’s then #5’s until a series of fingers/tight hands pods takes you up and right to a splitter hand crack. Pull into the obvious alcove. Work your way up onto the next set of ledges and belay.
Pitch 3 (5.7, 50m) Climb low to mid 5th class terrain mostly straight up to a section of 5.7 slab which is protectable. This is the same slab as for P3 of “Goode Earth”. However, rather than cutting right at the top of the wide crack on the slab as for ”Goode Earth,” instead cut left around the bulge on a few more moves of slab to a narrow ledge that leads to the base of a splitter .5’s crack. Belay here with a .5 and nuts. (if belaying here bring at least 4x .5’s). If you don’t care for splitter .5 cracks, head straight up from the end of the slab to the big comfy ledge. Belay here. A sneaky crack on the righthand wall of the chimney will take nuts if you want to save your .5’s for the pitch.
Pitch 4 (5.10b, 45m) Climb the splitter .5 crack to a ledge with a seam/ tips flare on the right and wide cracks/ chimneys to the left. Climb the chimney until it splits in two then climb the right hand chimney. At the ledge climb a finger/tips cracks on the right. Belay at the base of an obvious steep yellow lichened right facing dihedral. It is just to the right of a very obviously “camo” wall of massive stacked blocks. Belay just left of the dihedral with a .75/ #1 to save your small gear.
Pitch 5: The Banana Dihedral (5.10c, 30m) Climb the curving bright yellow lichened tips and fingers dihedral through the bulge and continue up the dihedral to a belay stance on the right.
Pitch 6 (5.7, 30m) Climb up and around the right side of the large rock pedestal (same as described on “Goode Earth”). Climb up and through broken terrain until a large belay ledge presents itself on the left.
Pitch 7 (4th/ low 5th, 60m) Climb, Scramble, or Simul up and left to the top of the ridge.
Getting There:
As for the “North Buttress,” take the Bishop Pass Trail from the South Lake Trailhead past Long Lake. From the backside of Long Lake head up trail a few hundred yards to just before the next pond and cross the creek to the west around here (37.13829, -118.55432). Head west and up a gully with sparse trees and vegetation to avoid going up the nasty, massive moraine hill to the left. Once on top of this hill, trend south and over a couple of rises in the moraine boulder fields aiming for the main buttress of Mt. Goode. On the last rise in the boulder fields, head down and left to the second buttress’ base rather than straight to the main buttress. Cross the snowfield to the base. If seasonal snow is still around you should be able to ascend the soft snow without an ice axe or crampons. Later in the season, crampons, boots, and/ or an axe may be needed to get across the ice once the seasonal snowpack melts off.
Descent:
Same as for the rest of the Mt. Goode routes, head down and left (SE) on blocky terrain until you get to sandy slopes. Contour down and left aiming for the area between Saddlerock Lake and Bishop Lake. Cross this area and gain the Bishop Pass Trail directly to the east.
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