Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade II
FA: Chester Versteeg - July 1939. FWA Owen, Tennesse, Fujii - Feb 1991
Page Views: 4,514 total · 35/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Jul 2, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

In summer when the snow has gone this is a talus hop to the summit block and is the standard descent route from the North Buttress. In early season of a good snow year it's a great moderate snow climb which steepens in the middle a bit. It's also possible to trend rightwards and hit the east ridge with its huge cornice (good snow year) and follow below this to the summit.

Used as a descent from the technical routes, and a good ski mountaineering objective.

Best camp for this is Saddle Rock Lake, although Long and Bishop Lakes are doable too. Cut around to the left of the East Ridge and follow a shallow gully to the slope then pick the path of least resistance to the summit block.

Location Suggest change

From Saddle Rock Lake get on the Bishop Pass trail for a while until you can cut cross country westwards to the shallow gully leading onto the slope.

Protection Suggest change

Solo usually.

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