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Routes in Mt. Goode

Jonny B. Goode T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
No Goode T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
North Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
North Buttress Variation. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
South East Slope T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
West Ridge of Mt Goode T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade II
FA: Chester Versteeg - July 1939. FWA Owen, Tennesse, Fujii - Feb 1991
Page Views: 279 total, 7/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Jul 2, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

In summer when the snow has gone this is a talus hop to the summit block and is the standard descent route from the North Buttress. In early season of a good snow year it's a great moderate snow climb which steepens in the middle a bit. It's also possible to trend rightwards and hit the east ridge with its huge cornice (good snow year) and follow below this to the summit.

Used as a descent from the technical routes, and a good ski mountaineering objective.

Best camp for this is Saddle Rock Lake, although Long and Bishops Lakes are doable too. Cut around to the left of the East Ridge and follow a shallow gully to the slope then pick the path of least resistance to the summit block.

Mount No Goode looks very impressive on the approach.

Location

From Saddle Rock Lake get on the Bishop Pass trail for a while until you can cut cross country westwards to the shallow gully leading onto the slope.

Protection

Solo usually.

Photos

J. Thornton  
 
We followed the route shown in pic, and did not scramble any terrain harder than non-exposed Class 2 in September 2013 (I suppose it could be called 'Class 2+'). But not sure if skirting lingering steep snow would require harder rock terrain. This summit provides a good view of Agassiz's West Slopes route. Jul 23, 2017