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Routes in Bat Cave

99 Problems S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
99 Problems But a Pinch Ain't One S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Bella Donna S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bella Donna (1st Pitch) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Flake, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bronner S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Enemy T S 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b
Funk, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Funkmaster Afro Groove S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Helsinki S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Hide & Seek(a) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jornada Del Muerto S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Midget Proof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Midget Proof Direct S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Morning Commute S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mudbone S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Nate Dog S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Old Man Direct S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Old Man and The Sea(ka) (1st Pitch) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Man and the Sea (ka) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Public Enemy S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Serenity S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technician, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Titanaboa S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a PG13
WTF S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Cody Roth
Page Views: 1,578 total, 27/month
Shared By: KJP on Feb 12, 2013
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

The first half of this route is technical slab for 7 bolts(5.9) ( As of4\12\13 this mid way has its own anchor.). After you clip the first fixed draw the climbing becomes steeper as you start the first of 3 bouldery sections, with good rests between them. This climb has surprisingly good holds for the grade and the difficulty comes from its relatively sustained nature. There is a lot of glue on this one, but in my opinion the quality of the movement makes this worth the effort.

Location

the farthest left in the cave, look for the large hole at the seventh bolt

Protection

bolts, fixed from the seventh to the top

Photos

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
Despite all the glue the quality of the moves makes this one of the best 5.13's in NM. Amazing boulder problems with some tufa holds thrown in. Roughly breaks down into a V5, V6, V5 with good rests in between. In 5 years this will be as sought after for a tick as routes like Goliath & Sinister Dane are today.

I replaced the original faded draws with chains, as this gets a lot of sun. Bring a few extra draws if you are working it. Mar 2, 2015