Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Cody Roth
Page Views: 1,886 total · 26/month
Shared By: KJP on Feb 12, 2013
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

The first half of this route is technical slab for 7 bolts(5.9) ( As of4\12\13 this mid way has its own anchor.). After you clip the first fixed draw the climbing becomes steeper as you start the first of 3 bouldery sections, with good rests between them. This climb has surprisingly good holds for the grade and the difficulty comes from its relatively sustained nature. There is a lot of glue on this one, but in my opinion the quality of the movement makes this worth the effort.

Location

the farthest left in the cave, look for the large hole at the seventh bolt

Protection

bolts, fixed from the seventh to the top

Photos

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
Despite all the glue the quality of the moves makes this one of the best 5.13's in NM. Amazing boulder problems with some tufa holds thrown in. Roughly breaks down into a V5, V6, V5 with good rests in between. In 5 years this will be as sought after for a tick as routes like Goliath & Sinister Dane are today.

I replaced the original faded draws with chains, as this gets a lot of sun. Bring a few extra draws if you are working it. Mar 2, 2015
Ripped another hold off of this thing. It's sort of crumbling, despite all the glue. Hopefully the rest stays! It is pretty fun movement in fantastic position - and is hard! Dec 30, 2018