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Routes in Bat Cave

99 Problems S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
99 Problems But a Pinch Ain't One S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Bella Donna S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bella Donna (1st Pitch) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Flake, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bronner S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Enemy T S 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b
Funk, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Funkmaster Afro Groove S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Helsinki S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Hide & Seek(a) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jornada Del Muerto S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Midget Proof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Midget Proof Direct S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Morning Commute S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mudbone S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Nate Dog S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Old Man Direct S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Old Man and The Sea(ka) (1st Pitch) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Man and the Sea (ka) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Public Enemy S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Serenity S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technician, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Titanaboa S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a PG13
WTF S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Cody Roth
Page Views: 1,403 total, 25/month
Shared By: KJP on Mar 14, 2013
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

5.11d to a no hands knee bar then two boulders problems with a good but hard to match rest in between them. I thought this had harder moves then Bella Dona, but was much less sustained.

Location

one to the right of Bella Dona.

Protection

all fixed draws.

Photos

LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
In reference to the who and when question.

It is my understanding that Bryan Pletta along with Mark Thomas and maybe a few others "discovered" the crag many years ago (15-20?), though they did not develop any routes at the Bat Cave itself they did put up several routes at Gotham City.

Bryan has always maintained a topo of those at Stone Age and mentions the Bat Cave to anyone who asks about potential for development. While Timmy was certainly the one to head down and bolt the cave first, others were also bolting routes around the cave at the same time and chose to stay out of the cave because Timmy and several others were already working in there.

BTW, IF the line had previously seen an FA, I agree that re-naming it would be bad form, however, with that in dispute... Apr 10, 2013
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
The start is no longer "all fixed" but Old Man Direct into the finish is now the "fixed" line. May 29, 2016
"I am also a semi-pro climber..."
Curious what that means? Comped shoes, work in a gym part-time?

What I don't get is why you're humping on Cody here, Menom. He laid out the story, first hand BTW. It didn't happen the way you seem to want it to have gone down. Cody shows up, onsights a climb, finds out its an FA from Sir Timy, names climb, end of story. So it goes... Jul 2, 2013
c roth  
You must be thinking of another line. I on-sighted the route two years ago and inadvertently did the FA. The following day Timy showed up, and when I asked about the line, he said it was an undone project. For the record, "the Stone Age crew" as you call it, hasn't been pissing on the place, we've been hiking out the trash, removing the glue where possible, and doing our best to restore this amazing resource. None of us hate Timy, it's simply that we don't accept or condone one individual's selfish need to manipulate, dumb down and litter a crag. The bat cave belongs to all of us, it's not a gym or someone's private crag. Thus, it should be respected, developed with dignity, and what's not climbable for us now, should be left for future generations, rather than manufactured to one's liking. The name stands, and just so it's clear, anything I bolt is fair game for anyone to try. I WILL NEVER RED TAG A ROUTE. ( I don't have anything against those who tag routes, and I respect routes that are tagged, but as a "professional climber", I don't think I deserve to have my cake and eat it too) If you beat me to one of my projects, congrats, ,you're welcome to name it whatever you like. I believe in progressing the sport and the community, not stagnating it,I don't want to hold anyone back. To the strongest, and by FAIR MEANS. Apr 5, 2013
c roth  
Nice send Kinchen! Mar 18, 2013