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Routes in Bat Cave

99 Problems S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
99 Problems But a Pinch Ain't One S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Bella Donna S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bella Donna (1st Pitch) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Flake, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dragon Reborn, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Enemy T S 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b
Funk, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Funkmaster Afro Groove S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Helsinki S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Hide & Seek(a) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jornada Del Muerto S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Midget Proof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Midget Proof Direct S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Morning Commute S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mudbone S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Nate Dog S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Old Man Direct S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Old Man and The Sea(ka) (1st Pitch) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Man and the Sea (ka) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Public Enemy S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Serenity S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technician, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Titanaboa S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a PG13
WTF S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Timy Fairfield and John Kear?
Page Views: 391 total · 9/month
Shared By: Rich Strang on Feb 9, 2015
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

From the low belay ledge in the Bat Cave (access the Bat Cave and follow a fixed line below the terraces to get to this ledge). Climb up and right to a bolt on the slab. Altetrnatly one could start on Trojan Horse and move up to the "1st" bolt after 3 or 4 clips on Trojan Horse. Diagonal up right to the big flake. Climb this to its top, move slightly right and ascend the clean face above. Do a final cool mantel move to finish and clip the anchors. There is a pitch above the chains moving right which is the climb Jornada Del Muerto.

Location

The mid belay ledge just below the Bat Cave terraces

Protection

Bolts to a chain anchor with a lowering biner

Photos

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.10d
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.10d
Rich, if this is the climb that I'm thinking of (starts right side of the cave, just right a long black streak that has a little bit of tufa) it was bolted by Timy and John Kear. I spent some time cleaning it and it was still a bit of a choss pile. I remembered that it could use an extra bolt protecting the crux as it could be a bad fall.

Edit 4/2/15: After re-climbing this what it needs is a fixed draw on the second bolt above the ledge. This will protect the crux a lot better. I'll put one on the next time I'm down there.

I also moved this into the Cave description, since the standard start is inside the cave. Feb 9, 2015
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
 
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
 
If it is Mike, we'll look into fixing it up. From the Black Steak there was a line of bolts moving left from the bottom of the big flake which was hard .12 to the first anchor- the easier line (furthest right line of bolts) - went up the flake to chains right under the roof. The first pitch was clean, we didn't go higher. From the chains it moved right and up and it looked uncleaned. Did you climb above the first chains? Got a real name? There are now several lines right of the Big Flake route. Ed and I have contacted Timmy, hopefully we'll hear back soon. The rock on the right side of the cave, though only vertical, is some of the best limestone I've ever been on. This place is a great winter hangout! Feb 9, 2015
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.10d
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.10d
Rich, yes this is it, didn't have a name that I knew of, we just called it the warmup, as it was the easiest thing in the cave. Good to hear it has cleaned up. I've never been above the first set of anchors on this route.

The black streak was called "OG Mudbone", and a really cool line, I remember it being much harder than it looked. I don't know if it was ever sent or not.

Cool that you guys have been getting down there, the rock up high on that side of the cave looks cool with a lot of Tufa features.

How has the weather been down there on these warm weekends? Feb 10, 2015

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