Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 556 total · 8/month
Shared By: rob bauer on Nov 21, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

This isn't my route, but let's post it to the database (I hate "unknowns," so I'm arbitrarily calling it Black Bart).

This whole dome is a bit friable, and IMHO, this was at least 10d. I thought it good. Let's see what you think?

Location

This is now the 5th route, L->R, about 15' right of Unsupervised Bolting. It angles up left from just left of a big pine, in the wide, black streak.

Protection

6 good bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
The polished rock makes this climb very difficult to rate.

IMO it's closer to 10d (maybe even 11a).


Also, IMHO a name should not be given to a route just because the original is unknown.

What's wrong with just putting it down as UKN? Jan 25, 2014
Ralph Kolva
Pine, CO
 
Ralph Kolva   Pine, CO
 
Agree with Locker, this climb is polished (didn't notice any friable sections on this one although plenty of it on other routes here) and harder than 5.10 on the lower section. May 27, 2014
teece303
Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.11b
teece303   Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.11b
I actually managed to lead this route once: I think I came off something like 20 times before managing to make it up the lower section. It is very slippery, and the movement is on really tenuous holds. The upper section is fun 5.8 or 5.9.

I have no reservations saying it is much harder than a 10a in the lower section. The falls are clean and it is well bolted, though. Jun 2, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.11a
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.11a
This is certainly harder than 10a! I fell twice on the lower section, got frustrated, and aided by pulling on a draw. It is not a bad route but is harder than 10a. Oct 5, 2015