Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 439 total · 6/month
Shared By: rob bauer on Nov 21, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This is not my route, but it is another one for the database.
Bad name: how about Mermaid?

It is a long way to the 1st bolt on what is essentially a 2 bolt climb, but the crux is probably at the bottom, depending how close to the water streak you start. Climbing far right is easiest. It's friable everywhere.

Location

This is now the 6th bolt line [route #4 (L->R) in the Haas guidebook] about 80'(?) right of Black Bart. Start on a wide, clean area between trees, just right of a water streak on the left third of the dome.

Protection

3 bolts, including the directional on the wall. Move the belay 20' right to a 2 bolt anchor with chains. A 60m rope will work if you want to belay from the ground.

Photos

Ralph Kolva
Pine, CO
 
Ralph Kolva   Pine, CO
 
The 3rd directional bolt is on the ledge below the overhand and cannot be seen from the base. No more friable rock than on almost all South Platte routes, expect a few micro flakes and crystals to come off. While the 1st bolt is a ways up, the diagonal seam makes getting to it fairly solid, but be prepared for the runout above the 2nd bolt. While the top off is over easier ground, messing up might land you on on your belayer. The anchor is roughly 20 to the right of the directional bolt and is shared by the following 3 or 4 climbs. May 27, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8+ R
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8+ R
I thought the crux on this was just above the 2nd bolt. It quickly gets easier, but the moves here are solid. The new book says it is 5.8-, but I think it is 5.8 or maybe even 8+ like it is listed here. It is not too scary getting to the first bolt, but a fall would be disastrous. Oct 19, 2015