Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Atlantis Slab

Above the .11 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Bart (aka Unknown 1) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dam The Water Board T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Drefach Lambda S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fluff Boys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hot Lava (aka Soliloquy) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Island Rhythm TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leper, The TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mermaid (AKA: unknown 2) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Missing The Dike aka Two Dikes for Dinner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Natives are Restless, The TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
No Bore a Bora T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sea Serpent (aka: Unknown 4) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Seventh Wave T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snark Hunt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This Bolt's For You T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Tim's Variation TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tim's Walkway S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Transformer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trident (aka: Unknown 3) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown TR TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsupervised Bolting S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: John McMullen, Tim Hudgel, & Carl Rasmussen, 1986
Page Views: 443 total, 3/month
Shared By: slim on Jan 31, 2005 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route is on Atlantis Slab. It is located towards the right side of the crag, just as a steep, bushy, rocky hill meets the wall. The route is visually obvious by a crack system that starts about 20 feet above the ground and goes from RPs to hands.

It has an ironic name. The guidebook shows a bolt on the initial slab getting to the RP seam, but it [was] no longer there. The crux is getting established a couple moves into the RP seam, and getting there is definite crater potential.

Start from below and to the right, and work your way up and left on a steepening slab to the RP seam. Place several pretty good RPs, and keep working upwards. The climbing getting progressively easier and transitioning through the sizes. Rap from a 3 bolt anchor. In the past, you may have needed to bring some webbing to "freshen up" the anchor.

When I did this, I had to garden as I went as the crack was loaded with dirt and weeds. With some cleaning, this would be a really good route.

Protection

RPs to hands.

Per Jay Eggleston: there is a bolt on this now as it has been replaced. The anchor has been replaced too, so there is no reason to carry webbing to "freshen" it up.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10d
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10d
This is not a bad route, but the leader should carry a nut tool to clean plants and dirt out of the crack. I did this the date of this comment, but if the route is not done again till after the next growing season, there will be new vegetation. Oct 31, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10d
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10d
The bolt has been replaced and is there. The route was posted before the climbs had their bolts replaced though. Oct 28, 2015
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
This is a good route. Even when the bolt was there, it was exciting. I always thought it was more 11a. Maybe it was the scare factor that made it feel harder. Nov 7, 2010