This Bolt's For You
Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|FA:||John McMullen, Tim Hudgel, & Carl Rasmussen, 1986|
|Page Views:||447 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||slim on Jan 31, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route is on Atlantis Slab. It is located towards the right side of the crag, just as a steep, bushy, rocky hill meets the wall. The route is visually obvious by a crack system that starts about 20 feet above the ground and goes from RPs to hands.
It has an ironic name. The guidebook shows a bolt on the initial slab getting to the RP seam, but it [was] no longer there. The crux is getting established a couple moves into the RP seam, and getting there is definite crater potential.
Start from below and to the right, and work your way up and left on a steepening slab to the RP seam. Place several pretty good RPs, and keep working upwards. The climbing getting progressively easier and transitioning through the sizes. Rap from a 3 bolt anchor. In the past, you may have needed to bring some webbing to "freshen up" the anchor.
When I did this, I had to garden as I went as the crack was loaded with dirt and weeds. With some cleaning, this would be a really good route.
ProtectionRPs to hands.
Per Jay Eggleston: there is a bolt on this now as it has been replaced. The anchor has been replaced too, so there is no reason to carry webbing to "freshen" it up.