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This Bolt's For You
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British R
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Atlantis Slab
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Above the .11 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Aquaman Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Bart (aka Unknown 1) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dam The Water Board T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Drefach Lambda S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fluff Boys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hot Lava (aka Soliloquy) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Island Rhythm TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Leper, The TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mermaid (AKA: unknown 2) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Natives are Restless, The TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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No Bore a Bora T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sea Serpent (aka: Unknown 4) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Seventh Wave T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Snark Hunt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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This Bolt's For You T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Tim's Variation TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tim's Walkway S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Transformer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Trident (aka: Unknown 3) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Two Dikes for Dinner (submitted as Missing The Dike) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown TR TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Unsupervised Bolting S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | John McMullen, Tim Hudgel, & Carl Rasmussen, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 1,086 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | slim on Jan 31, 2005 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route is on Atlantis Slab. It is located towards the right side of the crag, just as a steep, bushy, rocky hill meets the wall. The route is visually obvious by a crack system that starts about 20 feet above the ground and goes from RPs to hands.
It has an ironic name. The guidebook shows a bolt on the initial slab getting to the RP seam, but it [was] no longer there. The crux is getting established a couple moves into the RP seam, and getting there is definite crater potential.
Start from below and to the right, and work your way up and left on a steepening slab to the RP seam. Place several pretty good RPs, and keep working upwards. The climbing getting progressively easier and transitioning through the sizes. Rap from a 3 bolt anchor. In the past, you may have needed to bring some webbing to "freshen up" the anchor.
When I did this, I had to garden as I went as the crack was loaded with dirt and weeds. With some cleaning, this would be a really good route.
It has an ironic name. The guidebook shows a bolt on the initial slab getting to the RP seam, but it [was] no longer there. The crux is getting established a couple moves into the RP seam, and getting there is definite crater potential.
Start from below and to the right, and work your way up and left on a steepening slab to the RP seam. Place several pretty good RPs, and keep working upwards. The climbing getting progressively easier and transitioning through the sizes. Rap from a 3 bolt anchor. In the past, you may have needed to bring some webbing to "freshen up" the anchor.
When I did this, I had to garden as I went as the crack was loaded with dirt and weeds. With some cleaning, this would be a really good route.
Protection
RPs to hands.
Per Jay Eggleston: there is a bolt on this now as it has been replaced. The anchor has been replaced too, so there is no reason to carry webbing to "freshen" it up.
Per Jay Eggleston: there is a bolt on this now as it has been replaced. The anchor has been replaced too, so there is no reason to carry webbing to "freshen" it up.
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