This Bolt's For You
Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
Routes in Atlantis Slab
|Above the .11 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Black Bart (aka Unknown 1) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Dam The Water Board T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Drefach Lambda S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Fluff Boys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Hot Lava (aka Soliloquy) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X|
|Island Rhythm TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Leper, The TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Mermaid (AKA: unknown 2) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Missing The Dike aka Two Dikes for Dinner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Natives are Restless, The TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|No Bore a Bora T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Sea Serpent (aka: Unknown 4) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Seventh Wave T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Snark Hunt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|This Bolt's For You T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R|
|Tim's Variation TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Tim's Walkway S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Transformer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Trident (aka: Unknown 3) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Unknown TR TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Unsupervised Bolting S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|FA:||John McMullen, Tim Hudgel, & Carl Rasmussen, 1986|
|Page Views:||444 total, 3/month|
|Shared By:||slim on Jan 31, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route is on Atlantis Slab. It is located towards the right side of the crag, just as a steep, bushy, rocky hill meets the wall. The route is visually obvious by a crack system that starts about 20 feet above the ground and goes from RPs to hands.
It has an ironic name. The guidebook shows a bolt on the initial slab getting to the RP seam, but it [was] no longer there. The crux is getting established a couple moves into the RP seam, and getting there is definite crater potential.
Start from below and to the right, and work your way up and left on a steepening slab to the RP seam. Place several pretty good RPs, and keep working upwards. The climbing getting progressively easier and transitioning through the sizes. Rap from a 3 bolt anchor. In the past, you may have needed to bring some webbing to "freshen up" the anchor.
When I did this, I had to garden as I went as the crack was loaded with dirt and weeds. With some cleaning, this would be a really good route.
ProtectionRPs to hands.
Per Jay Eggleston: there is a bolt on this now as it has been replaced. The anchor has been replaced too, so there is no reason to carry webbing to "freshen" it up.