Type: Sport, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,514 total · 32/month
Shared By: Alex Mitchell on Nov 11, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

29 Opinions

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P1 Climb the thin face on the left face of the large open book. Not always straight forward.

P2 Climb up a black-streak face over an overhang and to the anchors.




Alex Mitchell
Phoenix, AZ
Alex Mitchell   Phoenix, AZ
Great route! Keeps on you start to finish with two no hands rests thrown in. Nov 11, 2012
Only climbed P1, and thought the crux was around the second bolt. The moves on the blank upper face aren't that bad if you can see the tiny edges for you feet as you move left. (wear your tight shoes for this) Aug 30, 2013
Alex Hilshey
Hellertown, PA
Alex Hilshey   Hellertown, PA
Second bolt has worked its way mostly out of the rock. Jun 19, 2014
christopher adams  
Really, really, really easy for 5.10. At the gunks this would get 5.9-/5.8+ Aug 1, 2014
sara pax
western mass/traveling
sara pax   western mass/traveling
this was pretty sweet done as a single pitch to the top. The guidebook says you need some gear for the second pitch, but I didn't find that necessary. I just clipped the 1st anchor long and then made sure not to blow the first clip on pitch two (which is high up through a chossy scramble). If you down climb the last 10-15 feet to the ground (5.4ish), you can get down in a single rap with 70m. Knot the ends! Aug 9, 2015
There are some nice moves on this climb, however, be warned: the second bolt on this route is bad. You can wiggle the bolt stud with your fingers and the length of threads protruding means there is not much of the business end left in the rock. It is loose because it was drilled into a flake rather than solid rock. Tap the rock around immediately the bolt with a carabiner if you need convincing.

Until this bolt is removed, the hole plugged, and redrilled in solid rock (and likewise, the 3rd bolt, which was poorly drilled at a downward angle), consider bringing thin gear. We used wires and small Totems. The upper bolts seemed okay.

The bolt protecting the crux of "Stake and Cake" is similarly loose, from another poorly drilled hole (likely drilled by the same amateurs). These and other bad bolts in the cliff are in need of replacement. Jul 27, 2016