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Routes in Main Wall

Claim Jumper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Doodle Bug T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Gong Show, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Grin and Bear It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hackett Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holy Grail T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Take It S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lunar Manscaping T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monty Python T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Princess Bride T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Protractor T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rock Lobster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rusty Lumberjack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sloppy Seconds T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Snake Charmer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stable Weather T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stake and Cake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wake and Bake S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wake and Cake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,023 total, 33/month
Shared By: Alex Mitchell on Nov 11, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

P1 Climb the thin face on the left face of the large open book. Not always straight forward.

P2 Climb up a black-streak face over an overhang and to the anchors.

Protection

Draws

Photos

There are some nice moves on this climb, however, be warned: the second bolt on this route is bad. You can wiggle the bolt stud with your fingers and the length of threads protruding means there is not much of the business end left in the rock. It is loose because it was drilled into a flake rather than solid rock. Tap the rock around immediately the bolt with a carabiner if you need convincing.

Until this bolt is removed, the hole plugged, and redrilled in solid rock (and likewise, the 3rd bolt, which was poorly drilled at a downward angle), consider bringing thin gear. We used wires and small Totems. The upper bolts seemed okay.

The bolt protecting the crux of "Stake and Cake" is similarly loose, from another poorly drilled hole (likely drilled by the same amateurs). These and other bad bolts in the cliff are in need of replacement. Jul 27, 2016
sara pax
western mass
5.10a
sara pax   western mass
5.10a
this was pretty sweet done as a single pitch to the top. The guidebook says you need some gear for the second pitch, but I didn't find that necessary. I just clipped the 1st anchor long and then made sure not to blow the first clip on pitch two (which is high up through a chossy scramble). If you down climb the last 10-15 feet to the ground (5.4ish), you can get down in a single rap with 70m. Knot the ends! Aug 9, 2015
christopher adams  
  5.9-
Really, really, really easy for 5.10. At the gunks this would get 5.9-/5.8+ Aug 1, 2014
Alex Hilshey
Hollidaysburg, PA
Alex Hilshey   Hollidaysburg, PA
Second bolt has worked its way mostly out of the rock. Jun 19, 2014
Gunkiemike  
 
Only climbed P1, and thought the crux was around the second bolt. The moves on the blank upper face aren't that bad if you can see the tiny edges for you feet as you move left. (wear your tight shoes for this) Aug 30, 2013
Alex Mitchell
Cincinnati, OH
 
Alex Mitchell   Cincinnati, OH
 
Great route! Keeps on you start to finish with two no hands rests thrown in. Nov 11, 2012