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Routes in Main Wall

Claim Jumper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Doodle Bug T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Gong Show, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Grin and Bear It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hackett Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holy Grail T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Take It S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lunar Manscaping T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monty Python T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Princess Bride T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Protractor T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rock Lobster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rusty Lumberjack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sloppy Seconds T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Snake Charmer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stable Weather T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stake and Cake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wake and Bake S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wake and Cake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,407 total, 27/month
Shared By: Benjaminadk on Aug 14, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Doesn't look nearly as cool as it climbs. Up the corner and work up the right rising slot(gear). Trend left up to a ledge on nice holds. Move up and right (crux) past a couple bolts. Follow and easier corner towards a white birch and look for bolted anchor.

Location

Same as Snake Charmer. Climb the initial corner to a slot that rises right of the Snake Charmer crack. Stay to the right of the large triangular prow of rock 60' up.

Protection

2bolts. Gear to 2". I like a yellow and blue tcu mid route to protect the moves up to the first bolt.

Photos

Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Great pitch! Do it if it's dry. Better than it looks. Jun 19, 2015
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
 
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
 
Really love the crux on this route. Nice and exposed and cryptic on sight. Now with beta this route has the greatest flow and best feeling moves of any at Shelving. Sep 24, 2013