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Routes in Main Wall

Claim Jumper T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Doodle Bug T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Gong Show, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Grin and Bear It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hackett Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holy Grail T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Take It S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lunar Manscaping T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monty Python T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Princess Bride T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Protractor T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rock Lobster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rusty Lumberjack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sloppy Seconds T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Snake Charmer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stable Weather T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stake and Cake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wake and Bake S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wake and Cake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 433 total · 7/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on Aug 30, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

2 pitch route that takes the proudest line up the buttress. Crimpy face crux moves. Sorry, but I can't comment on P2.

Location

Right of the wet, black gully that marks the left side of the buttress. Shares an anchor with Wake & Bake.

Protection

You definitely want a 5 inch cam for the wide horizontal 25 ft up. You may be able to fit a 00 TCU a foot above this if you need additional security. A bolt (long reach) protects the next (crux) section.

Photos

JVB Project
Berkeley CA
JVB Project   Berkeley CA
the crux section of p2 was fun, worth it. Aug 18, 2014
aparnas
 
aparnas  
 
I watched four people (including myself) do the pitch 1 crux moves four different ways. Fun and thoughtful no matter how you do it. No need for the #5 - there are lots of smaller cam and stopper placements available that will protect the moves before you clip the bolt. Jul 9, 2018

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