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Areas in Shelving Rock

Ark Wall 6 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Big Wall, The 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Carhartt Wall 4 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Desert Shield Area 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Jackass Buttress 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Main Wall 16 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Neanderthal Cave 2 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Politico Wall 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Elevation: 494 ft
GPS: 43.556, -73.603 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 59,773 total · 815/month
Shared By: Benjaminadk on Aug 10, 2012 with updates from Ryan and Jesse Morse-Brady
Admins: Jim Lawyer
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Shelving Rock is a destination cliff on the east side of Lake George. Shelving has seen a ton of development in the last few years and is not included in the paper edition of Adirondack Rock. However, ADK rock has kept up on their website.

adirondackrock.com/newroute…

The approach is short 5-20min depending on which wall you go to. The views of Lake George are first class. There are over 75 routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.12+. Many of the climbs are modern trad (gear and bolts). There are also many straight up sport climbs. Some walls get direct sun and some are shady giving the climber options depending on weather conditions.

This cliff is awesome if you are climbing anywhere near Lake George it is well worth it.

Note: Helmets are recomended for climber and belayer. Lots of choss was cleaned during development but occasionally more loose rock is encountered.

Getting There

From exit 20 of the Northway (I-87) head north on Route 9 for a couple minutes, then take a right onto Route 149. Follow Route 149 into Washington County and turn LEFT onto Buttermilk Falls Road. Follow this straight out until it becomes dirt. Continue until the Upper Hogtown Parking Area (Sleeping Beauty) is directly ahead. Turn left and go downhill on a dirt and paved road for a couple miles. Look for the Shelving Rock hiking trailhead on your right. Continue past this to the next large parking lot on the left. The parking lot is U-shaped, and will have a small sign with the number four. Look for a path across the road (right hand side) and slightly north of the parking area. The parking lot is just under 14 miles from 149. Total drive time from the highway is about 40 minutes, depending on how gentle you are to car on the dirt sections.

61 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Shelving Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
Touche
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 30
Devo
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
Breaking Bad
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 27
The Gong Show
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 27
Wake and Bake
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 19
Diva
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Three Degrees Of Separation
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Hackett Corner
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 11
The Cenotaph
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 15
Johnny Tsunami
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Die By The Drop
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Oracle
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Two Evil Deeds
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Protruding Forehead
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Claim Jumper
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Touche Ark Wall
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Devo Neanderthal Cave
 30
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Breaking Bad Neanderthal Cave
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Gong Show Main Wall
 27
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Wake and Bake Main Wall
 27
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Diva Neanderthal Cave
 19
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Three Degrees Of Separation Carhartt Wall
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Hackett Corner Main Wall
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Cenotaph Carhartt Wall
 11
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Johnny Tsunami Big Wall
 15
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Die By The Drop Big Wall
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Oracle Ark Wall
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Two Evil Deeds Ark Wall
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Protruding Forehead Neanderthal Cave
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Claim Jumper Main Wall
 6
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Shelving Rock »

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Photos

Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
There A LOT of climbing here and much of it is listed on the Adirondack Rock goodies page fwiw...

adirondackrock.com/newroute…

Don't know if I'd give it 4 stars when compared to other 4 star ADK areas, but it's certainly a quality climbing area with some (rare) all sport routes. May 30, 2013
CORRECTION - the turn onto Buttermilk Rd is a LEFT (i.e. north) turn off Rt 149. Aug 25, 2013
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
Thanks Mike. May 15, 2014
JVB Project
Berkeley CA
JVB Project   Berkeley CA
Make sure that you drive past the official ADK shelving rock sign. Not the little ones for the falls or hikes. Aug 18, 2014
Dan L.
Saratoga Springs, New York
Dan L.   Saratoga Springs, New York
Hey,

I lost a Metolius Master cam (size 5, the black one) doing a demo of how cams work. Its right near the base of Devo and Deva. If you can get it unwedged, my phone number is 203-727-8205.

Have a fun and safe climb.

Thanks,

Dan Sep 14, 2014
Hi

Anyone have any info on the camping situation near Shelving Rock? Looking for a site, ok with a short drive if there is some place nice near by.

Thanks

Don Aug 31, 2015
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
On the drive in you will pass a handful of designated camping sites. At best you will get a fire pit and an out house. Other than that I believe camping is permitted on state land as long as you are 100 feet from trails, roads and waterways. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I can't think of the closest state campground with full on showers other than Battlefield in lake george village. I'm not super familiar with fort Ann but there may be something closer. The pluses of camping near the crag are huge though...saves driving in all the way in there everyday and being so close to the lake for a swim is a major plus. Maybe someone local can chime in with more info that's all I can think of to say...actually there must be a couple rv parks on 149 that allow tents that are a little closer. Really someone could pitch a tent off the path right in front of the cliff if they wanted so long as they followed the above DEC rules. Sep 19, 2015
UPDATE - the lot for all except the Ark Wall is now designated "Lot 5" Jun 4, 2018

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