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Routes in Sunshine City

Bee Hold S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Contos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Diamonds Aren't Forever S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freak Gasoline Fight Accident S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Let Sleeping Bats Lie T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Raw Tips S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
WMP S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: David Lent, Nick Gully
Page Views: 1,330 total, 21/month
Shared By: Dylan Randall on Oct 28, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Begin on face holds under a large white spot on the rock. Go straight up over a small bulge to get to a good ledge. Traverse left to the black streak with good holds. Follow the streak up to the blunt arete, and follow this by climbing up and left. Finish at a fixed anchor.

Location

Directly right of the route Bee Hold, under a white streak.

Protection

Bolts spaced about 12 feet apart on the face. Fixed anchors at the top of the climb.

Photos

Bruce L
Arlington, MA
 
Bruce L   Arlington, MA
 
Used 60 meter rope, had about 10' to spare. Route angles left Jul 11, 2016
Mike McLean  
 
Thanks for the info Keven. I was up there on Saturday and climbed that line thinking I was on WMP (forgot to go left when I should have, so I just kept climbing that line). I did WMP and Beeline after and both were BRILLIANT. Aug 11, 2014
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.8-
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.8-
There is now a bolted 5.9 variation "Freak Accident with Gasoline" (three stars and G in the ADK Rock second edition) which has the same start as WMP but continues straight up the wall when WMP goes left heading for the arete. Not sure exactly how many bolts to anchor, which is shared with "Raw Tips" (10b) to the right. Aug 10, 2014