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Routes in Sunshine City

Bee Hold S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Contos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Diamonds Aren't Forever S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freak Gasoline Fight Accident S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Let Sleeping Bats Lie T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Raw Tips S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
WMP S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: 2007, Ian Osteyee, Justin McGiver, Shyloah Nilsen
Page Views: 1,567 total, 17/month
Shared By: Ethan Thompson on May 18, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

Start at the lowest point of the cliff, making some delicate moves up to the first bolt at 15 ft.

Climb up past 3 bolts to a right facing corner with a crack in it. Bring a 0.5 Camalot or equivalent for the crack. Pull into a stance in an alcove, clip a bolt, and puzzle over where to go next.

This is an interesting route with several cruxes that are as much mental as physical.

Location

Starts at the lowest point of the cliff, right of the route WMP.

Protection

Bolts and 1 or 2 finger sized cams to .5.
Bolted anchors.

Photos

Peter Foster
Davis, California
 
Peter Foster   Davis, California
 
Follow the bolt line for fun movement. I think the bolting is spot on Sep 11, 2017
Mikey C
Saranac Lake, NY
 
Mikey C   Saranac Lake, NY
 
Sweet climb. Gear helped in the corner as well. Just makes it a little more comfy, not needed though Nov 18, 2016
MasterBeta .  
 
I think the bolting is a bit off for this route, agreed. but, considering the proximity to WMP and easier climbing wandering off right, I feel like the second bolt (farther right) kept me on line. That being said, it was a little out of character for that climb to make a nicely spaced few bolts right after a pretty substantial high ball at the bottom. Sweet climb otherwise! not as polished by people climbing with dirty shoes, I felt it was almost easier than WMP in spots. Sep 29, 2016
Dylan Randall
Denville, NJ
 
Dylan Randall   Denville, NJ
 
Kevin, I can only assume Mike (and correct me if I'm wrong) was referring to the location of bolts in relation to the climb itself. I often found myself traversing left to clip a bolt, then traversing back right to regain the line.

I actually thought the bolts on Sunshine City warranted no criticism in terms of spacing. Apr 18, 2015
Greg Maschi
Phoenix ,Az
Greg Maschi   Phoenix ,Az
Climbed as slab results in no raw tips, avoids the step left to the corner and optional gear, makes the entire flow of the route much better. Mar 10, 2015
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
Mike, in response to your bolting criticism (keeping in mind I am not the route setter) I found the bolting on the routes here are spot on for what one should expect. There's general community consensus rules for when a bolt is needed... like if it's X number of grades below the crux/route grade, bolting will tend to be more spread out. There's pros/cons to this strategy, but it isn't done to piss anyone off or make it dangerous that I can assure you. There's many in the route setting sport climbing community that feel we should be able to easily handle some slabby 5.6 moves on a 5.10b route.

The only arguably bad bolt I encountered was the ground fall potential when clipping the second bolt on WMP. However this is tempered by the fact your feet are on a small ledge and you can pretty much stand there hands free if needed.

If you sport climb elsewhere you will find many large, destination caliber crags (Owen's River Gorge comes immediately to mind) where bolts are placed only when needed and easy terrain is essentially a runout. Aug 10, 2014
Chris Irwin
Silver Spring, Maryland
Chris Irwin   Silver Spring, Maryland
Not sure if this is an update... but this route is bolted as a sport rout and has rap hangers at the top. The first bolt is high up (~15ft) but you can get a small cam in the flake before it. other than that optional piece, no gear necessary. Jun 17, 2013
Mike Caruso
  5.10b
Mike Caruso  
  5.10b
Nice route where you get to stand on nothing and hold on to even less. Rock is "textured". Not one to criticize those who put the time and effort into bolting these routes, but bolt locations on this wall are questionable and detract from the great climbing. Dec 7, 2010