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Routes in Sunshine City

Bee Hold S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Contos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Diamonds Aren't Forever S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freak Gasoline Fight Accident S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Let Sleeping Bats Lie T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Raw Tips S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
WMP S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: 2004, David Lent, Nick Gully
Page Views: 1,260 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ethan Thompson on May 18, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

Strenuous, undercling, slab climbing. This is a unique route that looks easier than it is.

Start on good holds next to a dead tree. Pull over the starting bulge and scramble up low angle slab to the first bolt. Follow the maze of downward facing holds up the slightly off-vertical slab.

Well bolted and good fun although it looks like a hold or two has broken off and a few more could be poised to pop. Belayer be warned.

Location

The leftmost bolted line.

Protection

Bolts to fixed anchors

Photos

Jim Lawyer

  5.11a
Jim Lawyer    
  5.11a
Bernard: The crux section is in the middle, and it's definitely easier (and tempting) to move right to Bee Hold. Flakes have definitely broken off, but it is speculation whether this made the route harder. Perhaps it was always a sandbag?

I have since climbed it directly and I think 11a or 11b is a fair grade. Dec 14, 2015
B L
Montréal, Québec
 
B L   Montréal, Québec
 
Which part of the route did experience rockfall causing it to be harder than the grade causing many to use the neighboring route instead as stated in the new guidebook? Dec 13, 2015
Jim, I'd have to agree with you on that. Felt stout for a 5.10c, I'd push it to a 5.11. Fell off a few times, but I made it up without using anything from Bee Hold. Lots of compression moves and laybacks while on raw fingertips. But for the difficulty, what a seriously fun and well protected route. The two cruxes are extremely well protected (waist level falls). Jul 21, 2012
Jim Lawyer

  5.11a
Jim Lawyer    
  5.11a
Perhaps this is just me, but if you restrict yourself to the line of bolts, this feels like mid 5.11. If you climb to the right of the bolts (i.e., cheat by using some holds from Bee Hold, the neighboring route), it feels like the stated grade 5.10c.

I've never been able to climb this "direct" and have always cheated out right. Anyone else find this to be the case? Jul 8, 2012

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