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Areas in Spanky's Area

Birch Wall 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Nestle Wall 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Sunshine City 2 / 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Description [Suggest Change]

On the north side (right side, heading into Keene Valley) of Route 73 just minutes from Malfunction Junction, Spanky's Wall sits quietly amongst the large talus slopes.

A host of moderate sport and modern trad routes are the draw of this stellar little crag. The far right end ("Sunshine City" area) is a great place to spend a mellow day leading bolted climbs, while the extreme left end ("The Birch Wall") has a handful of hard mixed lines to thrash on.

Black flies can be fairly bad here, as this cliff sits directly above a swampy area. This is, however, a wonderful choice for hot, humid days, as you can chase the shade.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Is is located exactly 2.6 miles from the Malfunction Junction when heading toward Chapel Pond, or 1.5 miles heading from Chapel Pond toward Malfunction Junction. Park at a small pullout on the north side of Route 73. Hike down the hill, cross the stream (easy crossing), then upstream for a short way until you reacha trail that heads up to the Sunshine City area of the crags.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Spanky's Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos

The parking lot has a green road sign in it reading '73 1201 142'. If you see this, you're at the correct place. Jul 31, 2011
clara s  
the sign actually says:

73
1201
1412 Sep 2, 2014

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