Avg: 2.4 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Unknown: As Climbed by Brad White and Matt Peer October 2012|
|Page Views:||218 total, 3/month|
|Shared By:||Brad White North Conway on Oct 20, 2012|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionP1 Climb 40 ft up to a small overlap in the left center of the slab. Start moving up and right to a small bush (hidden yellow #2 Camalot crack) then up a shallow left facing flake near the right edge of the slab. Move up then right over the top of the tree island using the occasional tree for protection. Belay at a small pine tree with gear backup 40 feet below the obvious corner/overlap. 200 ft 5.5 PG 13
P-2 Friction straight up to the right slanting corner crack, (the eye), good protection can be found in the crack as you move up and right. Layback over a steep swell (crux , # four Camalot) and up the corner above another fifteen feet. Pull left over the corner 10 feet before its blocky end on big holds to a tree belay above. 5.6 80 ft
P-3 Scramble up a low angle right facing corner to a second tree. Above the second tree climb a right curving groove to protection pockets at its top. Move left and up the clean white headwall above that is 30 feet left of the pocketed dike finish of Living the Dream. There are 2 hidden protection pockets (red Tri-cam or sideways nut) in the center of the headwall. Climb straight up the slab above to the highest Jack Pine the rope will reach. 200 ft 5.6 PG 13
P-4 - Scramble to the top. 4th class.
Walk 30-40 feet back and right and you will cross the hiking trail. Turn right/ down, soon re-tracing your hike in., about 2.5 miles back to your car.
LocationStart at the bottom left most edge of Carter Ledge below an open slab, about 100-150 ft left of the start of "Direct"; see photo. [italic added by R.Hall]
This climb has Whitehorse style run outs on the slab sections but the protection in the crux corner is good if you have a #4 Camalot.