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Routes in Carter Ledge

Carter Ledge Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Living the Dream T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sachem T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Wandering I T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Unknown: As Climbed by Brad White and Matt Peer October 2012
Page Views: 218 total, 3/month
Shared By: Brad White North Conway on Oct 20, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

P1 – Climb 40 ft up to a small overlap in the left center of the slab. Start moving up and right to a small bush (hidden yellow #2 Camalot crack) then up a shallow left facing flake near the right edge of the slab. Move up then right over the top of the tree island using the occasional tree for protection. Belay at a small pine tree with gear backup 40 feet below the obvious corner/overlap. 200 ft 5.5 PG 13

P-2 – Friction straight up to the right slanting corner crack, (the eye), good protection can be found in the crack as you move up and right. Layback over a steep swell (crux , # four Camalot) and up the corner above another fifteen feet. Pull left over the corner 10 feet before its blocky end on big holds to a tree belay above. 5.6 80 ft

P-3 – Scramble up a low angle right facing corner to a second tree. Above the second tree climb a right curving groove to protection pockets at its top. Move left and up the clean white headwall above that is 30 feet left of the pocketed dike finish of Living the Dream. There are 2 hidden protection pockets (red Tri-cam or sideways nut) in the center of the headwall. Climb straight up the slab above to the highest Jack Pine the rope will reach. 200 ft 5.6 PG 13

P-4 - Scramble to the top. 4th class.

Walk 30-40 feet back and right and you will cross the hiking trail. Turn right/ down, soon re-tracing your hike in., about 2.5 miles back to your car.

Location

Start at the bottom left most edge of Carter Ledge below an open slab, about 100-150 ft left of the start of "Direct"; see photo. [italic added by R.Hall]

This climb has Whitehorse style run outs on the slab sections but the protection in the crux corner is good if you have a #4 Camalot.

Protection

For gear I would recommend bringing a light standard rack with a #4 purple Camalot and Tri-cams. Two #2 red Tri-cams would be helpful on the last pitch headwall pockets.
Please contact me if you retrieved a cam and sling on this slab between 6/1 and 6/10. Will pay for postage or pick up. Thanks. Jun 16, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.7 PG13
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.7 PG13
When we climbed this the bottom of the corner on P2 was a bit damp and slimy with lichen, so RW climbed the bottom about 10-12 ft to the right on 5.6+ / 5.7 friction; protected by a 0.5 Camalot in a crack high on the left...didn't need the #4, but did need a long reach ! See Photo Jun 3, 2017