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Routes in Carter Ledge

Carter Ledge Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Living the Dream T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sachem T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Wandering I T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Unknown: As climbed by Brad White and Matt Peer Sept 2012
Page Views: 1,917 total · 28/month
Shared By: Brad White North Conway on Oct 13, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Living the Dream 5.5 500 feet [Suggest Change]

P1 – Start eight feet up on a flat ledge at a small tree 70 feet left of the right end of the base of the slab. Step left then back right to a higher ledge then climb up 30 feet to a short left facing corner with a small pine branch growing out of the top. Climb the corner and then the slab above to a small tree belay on the left. 80’ 5.5

P2 – Climb slightly left and up thru flakes and cracks in a short headwall. Climb straight up the slab above passing a block and thin corners to a belay at three large pockets. The right pocket is a good thread. 150’ 5.5

P3 – Step left and follow a thin dike feature with pockets up the center of the slab and over a cool wave. Belay at a tree 30 feet higher. 200’ 5.4 [RHall NOTE: See COMMENT below about length of this pitch.]

P4 – Scramble 70’ to the top. Walk 30-40 feet back and right and you will cross the hiking trail. Turn right/ down, soon re-tracing your hike in., about 2.5 miles back to your car.

Gear: Light Standard Rack with Tri-cams for the upper pockets is adequate.
Jacob Sargent
Somerville, MA
 
Jacob Sargent   Somerville, MA
 
Fun climbing in a gorgeous setting! Short sections of fun moves separated by longer sections of VERY mellow slab.

Heads up!: The description above for pitch three didn't quite work for us. I finished the "wave" and then only had 10 feet of rope so I couldn't reach the tree in the description. There is another tree off to the right close the lip of the ledge at the top of the wave that I used for an anchor. Knowing that you'll finish with a traverse, you might extend gear at the top of the wave. We were belaying from the pockets described above with a 60m rope.

What I wish I'd done differently: I only own three tricams (two #1's and a #0.5) and I wished I had a full set (at least). It protected fine with what I had, but you'll be happier with more tricams. Also, I only made three or four nut placements the whole climb. Sep 8, 2014
Travis Dustin
Hollis, NH
 
Travis Dustin   Hollis, NH
 
Really fun climb amazing granite, and great views. On the 3rd pitch i made it to the belay tree described with inches of rope to spare on my 60m. I went really straight up and ran it out on easy ground instead of moving right to the corner to put in pro. That could be the difference to making it to the belay tree or not. If you do put in more pro there is other trees to build an anchor on just after the wave. Jun 16, 2015
Northeast Alpine Start
Conway, New Hampshire
Northeast Alpine Start   Conway, New Hampshire
Hit this today, fun route. We started at what we thought was the toe and trended right to the "lonely tree" at almost 200 feet from the start. Fun 2nd pitch to the cool thread, then skipped the pin and got one small cam in before the fun headwall, then simul'd to top once we ran out of rope. Not a big deal if you are both comfortable at the grade. Would probably do this in Guide Tennies next time. May 12, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Sounds like the whether or not you make P3 depends on how long your "60m" rope is! Ropes shrink with use, sometimes as much as 10%. Also, 60m is 196 ft, some manufactures cut their "60m" ropes to 200ft (the nominal "English" equivalent) , and many even add 6 to 10 ft to that.

Looks like "NEAlpine Start" did a mix-and-match of "Living the Dream" and "Direct", but that's the nice thing about this slab...you can mix-and-match pitches and routes to your heart's content! Jun 5, 2017
dragons
MWV, NH
  5.5
dragons   MWV, NH
  5.5
Really fun climb! I graded it 5.5. However, my feeling is that there are a couple of moves that are harder than anything I encountered on the "Platinum Slab" pitch of Cormier-Magness at Whitehorse. So maybe 5.5+? Or maybe it's just because I hadn't led this before, and I'm much more relaxed on "Platinum Slab" due to familiarity. The two moves that seem tricky to me are 1) getting past the tiny tree of P1 shown here - mountainproject.com/photo/1… - that tiny tree is next to a short but steeper slab, and trying to get up that without cranking on the tree is not super easy. And 2) getting up to the small headwall of P2 where Brad White is standing here: mountainproject.com/photo/1… - there's another short but steep slab, here, some exfoliating lichen, and the rock seems a bit polished. Pro is at your feet. Not sure but I think it would be easier to go right from the top of P1. However, I did not, since the route description said go left.

For any short people out there, I'm 5'0", and shortness was never an issue. May 24, 2018

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