Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Carter Ledge

Carter Ledge Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Living the Dream T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sachem T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Wandering I T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: FRA: Tom Zimmerman, Jonathan Garlough & Joshua Corbett
Page Views: 599 total, 11/month
Shared By: tommyguns on Apr 30, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Sachem- A paramount chief amoung the Algonquian tribes.
The name was chosen as a historical reference to the Indian Sachems that were known by settlers around the area. Powerful Sachem’s included Chocorua, Pagus and Passaconaway, of which the nearby mountains are named after.

This route climbs the right side of the main slab through the obvious headwalls.

P1: start up the featured slab passing a couple small birch trees. Continue up the slab to the left arching corner. Get great gear and pull onto the headwall following a trail of pockets. Pull the crux rock over move onto a lower angle slab and continue up the a headwall with a horizontal crack. Traverse right and belay from the tree. 150' 5.7 R

P2: Pull through the headwall at the crack in front of the belay tree onto the low angle slab (crux). Traverse left passing an often wet crack to the far left of the second headwall. Pull into a left facing corner (second crux) and then trend up and right to a tree ledge with a boulder and belay. 5.9. 130'

P3: Continue up the brown water groove to the top of the cliff and trees above. 5.4 PG-13. 110'
Walk back and right to the hiking trail.

-additional description by Jonathan Garlough

Protection

Light to medium rack with tri cams. BD Cam's up #2 (For headwall crack)

Location

On the far right side of the cliff with obvious headwalls...

Photos

chinos
 
chinos  
 
This is the same route. tom did a wandering first pitch at 5.5. We went back and straightened the line out, and added the second and third pitches. Sep 1, 2014
Ron Birk
Boston, MA
Ron Birk   Boston, MA
chinos, are you describing the same route or another? I am asking as the submitter of this route rated it 5.5 and you 5.9 Aug 21, 2014
chinos
 
chinos  
 
Sachem 5.9 R

This route climbs the right side of the main slab through the obvious headwalls.

P1: start up the featured slab passing a couple small birch trees. Continue up the slab to the left arching corner. Get great gear and pull onto the headwall following a trail of pockets. Pull the crux rock over move onto a lower angle slab and continue up the a headwall with a horizontal crack. Traverse right and belay from the tree. 150' 5.7 R

P2: Pull through the headwall at the crack in front of the belay tree onto the low angle slab (crux). Traverse left passing an often wet crack to the far left of the second headwall. Pull into a left facing corner (second crux) and then trend up and right to a tree ledge with a boulder and belay. 5.9. 130'

P3: Continue up the brown water groove to the top of the cliff and trees above. 5.4 PG-13. 110'
Walk back and right to the hiking trail.

FRA: Tom Zimmerman, Jonathan Garlough & Joshua Corbett Apr 19, 2014
tommyguns  
 
Please don't take my protection advice literally. I soloed this route and only have moderate trad experience. Please use care rapping down P1, cause this pitch is quite tall. Options would include bailing to climbers left or right and raping from trees. Apr 30, 2013