Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Western Spaces Wall

Black Sun T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Breathing Stone, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Circus Act T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C0
Desert Solitude T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Git From Here You Dogs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b C0
Mr. Natural of the Desert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tranquility Base T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Western Spaces T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 840 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Dave Wonderly & Warren Egbert 1989 (Swain guide)
Page Views: 2,746 total, 44/month
Shared By: Xavier Wasiak on Oct 8, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Beginning with an involved approach leading to some classic and some not so classic but interesting pitches, and a descent that could have you wading in water up to your head, this route is a full day of adventure.

Pitch 1, 150' (10b) From the bolt anchoring the fixed line on the approach ramp, head up the obvious face and flakes past two bolts trending left past the weakness in the roof to a ledge. Climb the face to the crack leading to the right facing corner. Up the corner to a ledge and a bolted anchor.

Pitch 2, 150' (10a) Directly off the belay ledge head around the corner to the left to a black face. Fun face climbing leads past two bolts straight up, trending first to the left then to the right then straight up to another bolted anchor.

Pitch 3, 80' (10c) Climb up and right past two bolts (wild and fun face climbing) to a broken corner then right to a thin fingers lie back. Climb this to pedestal and belay at the base of a beautiful corner. #1 & #2 BD for belay.

Pitch 4, 140' (10) Climb up the nice hand crack in the corner and don't be tempted to move right until after you see a crack that passes a small roof and a couple of mandatory bushes. This crack will curve to the right at the top and around a corner to a ledge and a belay (gear).

Pitch 5, 90' (10a) Upwards and onwards following the crack to a ledge to the right of a large alcove (gear).

Pitch 6, 80' (9) Head up this big feature the best way you can reaching for the 6"-10" crack on the right side of the roof. Good gear opportunities exist and there is no need for really big pieces here. Past this there is a great slanting ledge and another belay (gear).

Pitch 7, 160+' (9) There are two possibilities here. Handren guide says the right crack is 5.8 and eventually trends left and joins the left crack. We climbed this first but I down climbed after 30 feet or so. gear was crappy and the holds were less than inspiring. The crack on the left went well enough and could be surprisingly well protected. Stay in the crack trending left.

You're heading for a steep gully that eventually leads to the top in another pitch or so.

The first four pitches are fun and on mostly good rock. The pitches after that deteriorate and hence the 2 stars instead of more. The first four pitches alone would be 3 stars or more. Enjoy!!!!

Location

You can easily spot the first and second bolt on the first pitch somewhere between Breathing Stone and Tranquility Base. The route climbs through a weakness in the arch, on the left side of the arch. There is a single bolt at the base of the route that holds the upper end on a line that is currently fixed on an approach ramp. Once on top, head climber's right (west) and straight (south) diagonaling down some slabs to a gully where you will encounter your first single rope rap off of a tree. Tat and a couple of carabiners. Scramble down to a two bolt rap anchor on the right side of the gully. A two rope rap gets you down to a big sloping ledge area (probably a river when it rains) to the next bolted anchor on the left. Two double rope raps will get you down to the gully, on the far left side of the Western Spaces Wall.

You could also bring shoes and all your gear and descend via the eastern descent for any of the BV routes that top out.

Protection

Full rack up to a BD#4 with doubles .75 to 3 and a set of nuts is what we took. The anchor on top of pitch 3 took a #1 and #2, and you'll want another 1 and 2 for the fourth pitch. Only pitches 1 and 2 have bolted anchors. There are ten bolts on the route and they appeared to be in good shape.
On pitch 7, the crack you want to take is all the way left down the ledge. I started going up, thinking I was taking the left of two possible features, but ended up traversing left to the crack (I think) you're meant to take after 20 feet or so. Overall this page's writeup was a life saver.

We walked off via the standard BV route. Took probably 20 minutes to connect to the very first saddle on the Epi descent. We took the approach described by Josh Janes on the Western Spaces Wall main page, and thus avoided all potential pools. It's been a very dry season, and there was still quite a bit of water in them.

Overall, an INCREDIBLY sustained and honestly serious day from the moment you step off the ground to the moment you top out. Nov 10, 2017
^^^^^^^THAT, ladies and gentlemen, is a great writeup.

Thanks for taking time to put 'er down, big time! Well done! Oct 10, 2012