Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 840 ft (255 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Dave Wonderly & Warren Egbert 1989 (Swain guide)|
|Page Views:||3,696 total · 34/month|
|Shared By:||Xavier Wasiak on Oct 8, 2012|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Pitch 1, 150' (10b) From the bolt anchoring the fixed line on the approach ramp, head up the obvious face and flakes past two bolts trending left past the weakness in the roof to a ledge. Climb the face to the crack leading to the right facing corner. Up the corner to a ledge and a bolted anchor.
Pitch 2, 150' (10a) Directly off the belay ledge head around the corner to the left to a black face. Fun face climbing leads past two bolts straight up, trending first to the left then to the right then straight up to another bolted anchor.
Pitch 3, 80' (10c) Climb up and right past two bolts (wild and fun face climbing) to a broken corner then right to a thin fingers lie back. Climb this to pedestal and belay at the base of a beautiful corner. #1 & #2 BD for belay.
Pitch 4, 140' (10) Climb up the nice hand crack in the corner and don't be tempted to move right until after you see a crack that passes a small roof and a couple of mandatory bushes. This crack will curve to the right at the top and around a corner to a ledge and a belay (gear).
Pitch 5, 90' (10a) Upwards and onwards following the crack to a ledge to the right of a large alcove (gear).
Pitch 6, 80' (9) Head up this big feature the best way you can reaching for the 6"-10" crack on the right side of the roof. Good gear opportunities exist and there is no need for really big pieces here. Past this there is a great slanting ledge and another belay (gear).
Pitch 7, 160+' (9) There are two possibilities here. Handren guide says the right crack is 5.8 and eventually trends left and joins the left crack. We climbed this first but I down climbed after 30 feet or so. gear was crappy and the holds were less than inspiring. The crack on the left went well enough and could be surprisingly well protected. Stay in the crack trending left.
You're heading for a steep gully that eventually leads to the top in another pitch or so.
The first four pitches are fun and on mostly good rock. The pitches after that deteriorate and hence the 2 stars instead of more. The first four pitches alone would be 3 stars or more. Enjoy!!!!
You could also bring shoes and all your gear and descend via the eastern descent for any of the BV routes that top out.