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Routes in Western Spaces Wall

Black Sun T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Breathing Stone, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Circus Act T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C0
Desert Solitude T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Git From Here You Dogs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b C0
Mr. Natural of the Desert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tranquility Base T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Western Spaces T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Warren Egbert, Dave Wonderly
Page Views: 1,223 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jon O'Brien on Apr 21, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

We were lured back there by Handren's "finest finger crack" comment.. Unfortunately, (hindsight being a bitch) we only brought finger sized gear! The first half is a 5 inch corner crack and the roof really calls for another big piece. We bailed halfway up on a yellow metolius.

Location

My boy fixed all new lines for the approach... Enjoy the lines! One involved naked swimming through the devil's anus to get it fixed... (you'll see) LOL

Protection

Two 5's wouldn't go unused. Big question mark concerning gear linking the roof section to the crack proper

Photos

- No Photos -
Josh Janes    
 
I recommend the following rack:

3 ea. Black Alien/Purple C3 - Green Alien/Red C3
1 ea. 0.4 Camalot - #3 Camalot
2 ea. #4, #5 Camalot (I did it with only one #4 and #5 but this required heavy-handed back cleaning)
1 set of Stoppers

We barely made it down with an 80m rope... I think the climb is closer to 140'.

Approaching this route is much easier via the Corduroy Ridge: Immediately after scrambling up the initial bolted slab on the left, gain the ridge (do not continue up the canyon). Follow this (a couple exposed 5.0 moves here and there) until directly opposite and above the arch of The Breathing Stone. Hug the left edge of the ridge here and scramble down left into a notch continuing down slabs either directly and improbably to The Breathing Stone or more obviously slightly up canyon to Mr. Natural. Mar 3, 2016
Loganator
blue van, on the highway to no
Loganator   blue van, on the highway to no
We read something about naked swimming through the "devils anus" in order to access this route. After yarding up on 5 or so core shot fixed lines, chimneying over several of these "demon anuai pools", and hopping over loose chockstones, we got to the final crux of the approach: a 15x8 foot pool with no easy way of getting around. We tried to go around via an easy looking slab. (Easy slab? ha!) Once Jack got to the other side of the pool via the slab and realizing there was no dry way back, he prepared for the dirty dunk... until we realized an easy tyrolean traverse is used to bypass such a messy pool! we got Jack back with only a slight dampness on the rope. Needless to say, we didn't climb this line. If it's as fun as the approach, I bet it's a splendid line! Great adventure. Nov 13, 2013
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
Anyone got any beta? We bailed halfway up. Dirty rotten fear was the culprit...(and a lack of gear) Apr 21, 2009

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