Type: Trad, 1300 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Dave Wonderley, David Evans
Page Views: 4,664 total · 23/month
Shared By: DEE on Feb 20, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

A couple of hundred meters up canyon from the Black Velvet wall is the wall with this route. It is marked by a 50-60 foot across arching roof which sticks out 6-10'.Pitch 1: Climb the right side of a small pillar to a bolt (5.9) and then up the face above passing a total of 5 bolts (5.10a) till just below the left end of the roof. Place cams and surmount the roof (5.11a)to a sling belay at two bolts.Pitch 2: Straight up to a fp then up and right (2 bolts)to a ramp. Back left and up (5.9+ one more bolt) to a ramp/dihedral and belay at the dihedral's top (top of a small pillar) at two bolts.Pitch 3: Climb face up past 6 bolts (5.10-), veer left (staying away from loose stuff up and right) and up passing three more bolts (5.11/12) to a stance with 3 bolts.Pitch 4: Climb a crack on the headwall above passing one bolt (5.10b natural pro) to a sling belay.Pitch 5: Continue up the crack (5.10b) and head out right passing a bolt and two discontinuous cracks to a left facing dihedral(5.10a). Take the dihedral to the top and belay.Pitch 6: Climb the crack straight above passing two roofs and a wide section (5.10b).Pitch 7:Climb a short pitch up a right facing dihedral and belay on a ledge at the base of a 4th class gully.Pitch 8: Up the gully, out a ramp to the right (5th class) and the top.Descend gullys to the right with raps and downclimbing.

Protection

Standard rack to 4"

Photos