Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
Routes in Western Spaces Wall
|Black Sun T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Breathing Stone, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Circus Act T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C0|
|Desert Solitude T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Git From Here You Dogs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b C0|
|Mr. Natural of the Desert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Tranquility Base T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Western Spaces T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 1100 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Dave Wonderly, Warren Egbert 1989|
|Page Views:||273 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||Manderson198 on Sep 6, 2015|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionCaveat: This is not an accurate description of the first ascent route. We (I) led us off route on the third pitch, and we had to add a traversing pitch in order to get back on route. If anyone makes the same mistake, this is an appropriate correction. If anyone climbs the route proper, feel free to augment our information.
Also, the Handren description is very inaccurate. Grades seem to be correct, but pitch lengths are way off.
This rock on this route prevents me giving more stars. You should only climb this route of you are comfortable at the grade, and are familiar with the more friable sandstone found in Red Rock.
Approach as for Western Spaces Wall. This involves climbing up fixed ropes, and quite a bit of chimneying. Arrive at the base of the climb after the last chimney. The first bolt of the first pitch should be apparent ca. 10 ft above.
Pitch 1, 140' (10cR) Climb past the first bolt, performing a sporty move that leads to a crack that runs up and slightly left. Climb to a second bolt, and up to a left-facing corner. climb the corner or arete a while to a a bolt below a roof. Traverse left, and maneuver above the roof, climbing up and slightly right to a two-bolt anchor.
Pitch 2, 120' (7+) Climb up and right past lichen-covered rock and gain a crack/corner system that leads slightly right and up. Climb to a fixed gear anchor that includes a couple of nuts and hexes.
Pitch 3, 140' (10b/cR) Climb up and right past a bolt, and face climb up to a ledge past runout flakes. Climb up to a ledge and clip a bolt up high. Climb past the bolt and follow a crack up and left to a ledge with a large pine tree and a couple of smaller trees. Belay off of the pine. NOTE: This is the pitch that we got off route. The correct belay is where the crack branches, but this was not apparent at the time. The next pitch describes how to get back on route.
Pitch 4, 120' (8R) Move onto the face of the buttress to the right. Climb up until you can get decent gear, and traverse right at the top of the formation. The rock here is very soft and unconsolidated, so caution must be taken. Belay in a right-facing corner at a small stance.
Pitch 5, 160' (10cR) Move up the right-facing corner. Pass 3 bolts and belay in a crack below a roof.
Pitch 6, 190' (10aR) Move up and over the left side of the roof, and continue straight past crack and face. Belay on a huge block at the base of a face.
Pitch 7, 190' (9) Climb up the face a short while until you reach a crack. Follow the crack up and slightly right to a low angle bowl/chimney, and belay at a stance below another obvious low-angle chimney.
Pitch 8, 100' (6) Climb up the low angle chimney to the top of the formation, crossing over a gap to the right to reach the final ledge.
Scramble down and skier's right to a tree with slings. Make 4 double rope raps to the top of the gulley, trending down and skier's right. Traverse right across the south-facing slab and follow a fixed rope path to reach the beginning of the route.
Full rack to BD#4 with a few doubles in the .5-2" range. Ballnuts were helpful, albeit not crucial, in a couple of places. The bolts on the route are in generally good shape.
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