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Routes in The Guillotine

Annie's Overhang T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Barefoot Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Beginner's Chimney T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Beginner's Face TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Beginner's Nose TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Broken Boulders T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Broken Boulders Variation TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Corner, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guillotine 49 T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Labor Pains T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Layback , The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Levitation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Levitation Right Side T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Makeover T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a V0 4
Pike, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poison Ivy T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rhus Toxicodendron Radicans T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 73 total · 1/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Oct 1, 2012
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Step up on the initial, big footholds, then wonder what to do next. A devious puzzle.

The answer seems to be: use crimps and foot-chips to get your foot into the large, sloping incut. Stand up and reach for a large hold at the top of the slab. Get your fingers in the horizontal out on the right face (the first good gear!), and continue straight up or move over to the right.

Location

Six feet right of "Levitation".

Protection

A couple of pieces in the 1/4" to 3/4" range.

Photos

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Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
No typo, I disagree with The Book on this one. May 8, 2013
The book says this is a 5.6. May 8, 2013