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Routes in The Guillotine

Annie's Overhang T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Barefoot Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Beginner's Chimney T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Beginner's Face TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Beginner's Nose TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Broken Boulders T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Broken Boulders Variation TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Corner, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guillotine 49 T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Labor Pains T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Layback , The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Levitation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Levitation Right Side T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Makeover T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a V0 4
Pike, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poison Ivy T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rhus Toxicodendron Radicans T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Old School
Page Views: 98 total, 1/month
Shared By: Andy Hansen on Jun 18, 2011
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

This route starts about 15 to the left of Levitation. Climb to the right of the corner by about 6 feet. Use small sidepulls and crimps to gain a decent ledge then follow thin crack to another ledge and take it to the top.

Location

Left side of Guillotine Wall.

Protection

If Rhoads leads this before me I'll quit climbing.

Photos

Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
 
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
 
Actually I have to quit climbing. Thanks a lot, Rhoads. I'm ruined. Aug 20, 2011
Tradiban
  5.9+ R
Tradiban  
  5.9+ R
Haha, I led it. There was only a very iffy offset placement 15ft up. A small tri-cam may have worked as well. It was a stretch to place and any upward pull would have popped it right out.

Start this with a lunge to a good left hand jug near the corner, move on to the face and place your piece high, then layback in the crack utilizing the left corner a bit.

AND...I just ruined your on-sight Andy! Aug 20, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
 
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
 
Haha! Well, go for it! I just want to OS it- that's all that matters to me. Jun 19, 2011
Tradiban
  5.9+ R
Tradiban  
  5.9+ R
Hmmmm...I was eyeing this up the other day! Jun 19, 2011