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Routes in The Guillotine

Annie's Overhang T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Barefoot Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Beginner's Chimney T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Beginner's Face TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Beginner's Nose TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Broken Boulders T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Broken Boulders Variation TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Corner, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guillotine 49 T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Labor Pains T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Layback , The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Levitation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Levitation Right Side T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Makeover T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a V0 4
Pike, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poison Ivy T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rhus Toxicodendron Radicans T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 168 total, 2/month
Shared By: James on Jan 28, 2009
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the offwidth crack to the right of Broken Boulders. Guide book says 5.4 if you jam your left leg in the crack, 5.7 if done as a pure layback. I have climbed approximately 60 routes at Devil's Lake so I know the ratings are stiff here, but this route is in the running for one of the hardest 5.4's on the planet. I will go back and lead it before passing final judgement.

Location

The route is just to the right of Broken Boulders. Coming in from the west walk along the base passing an outside corner (Poison Ivy 5.5). Here the base becomes a ledge, walk along this slightly exposed ledge to the next outside corner (5.7 corner). Pass Broken Boulders and look for the offwidth crack to the right. Walk off to the left, head left and down before you reach the Monster Wall.

Protection

Light rack on the bigger side. I have not lead this one yet.

Photos

Cals Chers
Albuquerque, NM
 
Cals Chers   Albuquerque, NM
 
I'm not sure if it still counts, but I used the finger crack on the left, inside the off-width. It made the route much more enjoyable and still difficult enough. Jul 29, 2013
Ryan Fritsch  
 
Midway through this climb I got my knee stuck for a few sec. Definitely not my proudest moment, but i got it out by myself with only 2 large bruises. Jun 22, 2012
Tradiban
  5.7
Tradiban  
  5.7
In Sven's book he notes that this is 5.4 if you jam your left leg in the crack, which doesn't make much sense. It also says it's 5.7 if purely laybacked. I would just call it 5.7

This can take a #4, #5 AND a #6 C4 if you feel like placing it. Aug 20, 2011
Juggler  
Much harder that a 5.7 at the bottom due to greasy footings Jun 12, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
What does this thing go at if only pure off-width technique is used? Probably pretty burly. May 27, 2011
C. Marchbanks
Golden, CO
C. Marchbanks   Golden, CO
Though the laybacking itself isn't too hard, the bottom of the crack was extremely greasy when I climbed it (6/14/09) making the moves at the bottom a lot harder. Jun 14, 2009