Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 708 total · 4/month
Shared By: James on Jan 28, 2009
Admins: Ian CB, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route

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Climb the offwidth crack to the right of Broken Boulders. Guide book says 5.4 if you jam your left leg in the crack, 5.7 if done as a pure layback. I have climbed approximately 60 routes at Devil's Lake so I know the ratings are stiff here, but this route is in the running for one of the hardest 5.4's on the planet. I will go back and lead it before passing final judgement.


The route is just to the right of Broken Boulders. Coming in from the west walk along the base passing an outside corner (Poison Ivy 5.5). Here the base becomes a ledge, walk along this slightly exposed ledge to the next outside corner (5.7 corner). Pass Broken Boulders and look for the offwidth crack to the right. Walk off to the left, head left and down before you reach the Monster Wall.


Light rack on the bigger side. I have not lead this one yet.