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Routes in Atoll, The
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Enola S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Ol' St. Joe S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Smeat T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Smokers T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 35 ft (11 m) |
| FA: | A. Pon, 2003 |
| Page Views: | 877 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on May 31, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
All of the routes at The Atoll are a little sandbagged, and this one is not an exception. Gillett gives it 5.0 to 5.2, but I felt is was probably 5.5. Gillett also mentions a bolt, but that has been chopped, as have the first bolts of each climb at this area. Wander up the line of least resistance on the narrow face of rock that is exposed.
Location
This route climbs a flat slab of rock 40' downhill (right) of The Atoll's main formation, on a slab that faces The Atoll itself.
Protection
Maybe this is best as a solo, but a few stoppers and cams will get the job done once you are off the ground. The bolt that once protected the initial moves has been chopped.
Improvise an anchor at the top on gear or climb up and left to the pine tree above 'smokers' and belay.
Walk off to the climbers' right, and back to the base (100 feet total).
Improvise an anchor at the top on gear or climb up and left to the pine tree above 'smokers' and belay.
Walk off to the climbers' right, and back to the base (100 feet total).
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