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Routes in Indecent Exposure

Baby Toes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Base Camp S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Big N' Tasty S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cone Stoned S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cranium Crack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dicky Do S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dicky direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eyes Without a Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Get Some! S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
High Altitude Huck* S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
High Times S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Himalayback S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Indecent Exposure S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Indirect Exposure S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jet Scream S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ka-Pow! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ka-Powzer! S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Naughty Little Pillar S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oh What?! S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pulmonary Suprema S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rollin' With a Bowline S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Liner S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sound of Silence , The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Split Her S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight With An Eight S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Streaker S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tasting Time S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Teddy Bersheer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tittie Twister S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
booshka S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Joel M.
Page Views: 376 total · 5/month
Shared By: Jon Marek on Mar 28, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

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Begin by scrambling to the top of a chossy platform about 15 feet up, clip the first bolt and begin climbing on the arete and left face. Difficult climbing through hard to read sequences, technical crux is probably the first three bolts but the top gets the pump going after a decent rest at the half-way mark. The guidebook says this is a 10b and that it is a good warm-up, I disagree on both counts. Hard to clip, hard to rest, hard to read, HARD.


Two routes left of the wonderful Tasting Time. Look for the sign.


Bolts. Beware! The first second and third bolts could be tricky to clip with very poor feet, if you fell at the wrong spots you could hit the large ledge at the first bolt.


This is a great route that is probably being overlooked due to its weird location. The rock is clean, the moves are hard, and it is a very difficult onsight for the inexperienced five ten climber who might not have attained a certain level of strength. I don't think it deserves a PG-13 rating unless, of course, you are completely inexperienced as a leader or you have a belayer who has no idea what they are doing. I'm sorry I got the ball rolling in that direction for this area since I described a few of the climbs here with that label. PG-13 is a construct meant to make people realize that a higher level of competancy is needed for leaders that attempt the climb. What I meant to convey was the fact that the potential for injury might be a bit higher at Indecent Exposure than some other places if you are a complete beginner or have only been climbing five ten for a little while and have had no real experience at taking falls or dealing with run outs. Intermediate level climbers with experience and confidence in their abilities should not be scared away. Leaders and belayers who are competant with falling and dealing with some common sense safety issues should have no problems at this area. Jun 25, 2012
Jon Marek
Sioux Falls, SD
Jon Marek   Sioux Falls, SD
I have to disagree with you Brent. The grade for this route is well within my abilities and I am very familiar with the grade in spearfish, I did after all on-sight this climb.

That being said the moves are hard with bad feet right off the (SUPER CHOSSY) ledge and the bolts are far from easy to clip (read: awkward), and as I said falling awkwardly or while clipping in the first few bolts is almost guaranteed to land you on the ledge (broken ankle anyone?). My rating of PG-13 was not influenced by you or anyone else. Of course the idea of PG-13 varies from person to person but I think it is a fair description of the route.

This route could be a dangerous on-sight for any leader. In fact I am a little peeved that you would say this only applies for the "completely inexperienced" and belayers who have "no idea what they are doing". Certainly this route is more sketchy for the grade than Basecamp (one of your pg-13 ratings, to account for the 4th class section I assume). It's not like I'm just throwing these grades out willy-nilly (this is the only route I have given the rating to) but if you expect people to believe this route is the same difficulty as any other 10b in Indecent than you are bonkers. This route is much harder than the other 10b and the dangerous section is also the most difficult (clipping is the crux). Nov 19, 2012

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